Sqirl | Silver Lake, CA

I have a confession to make. It's a really embarrassing one. 

Up until a few weeks ago, I hadn't been to Sqirl. 

I had been waltzing around Los Angeles, considering myself a "brunch expert," and I hadn't experienced what is widely considered the best brunch in the city. I know! I'm ashamed. And I'm here to say I'm sorry. 

Sqirl, Silver Lake, CA

Sqirl, Silver Lake, CA

When I say that this place is widely considered the best brunch in Los Angeles, I do mean widely. Just about every list of where to eat in the city of angels includes Sqirl at the very top - and I'm not talking about lists of where to have breakfast or brunch or lunch in Los Angeles, I mean where to eat. Period. So that's a little bit amazing, since this is a breakfast-and-lunch-only kind of joint that closes at four o'clock in the afternoon each day. Just about every food critic in the country has written at least a paragraph or two about Sqirl, and the verdict is overwhelmingly positive. Jonathan Gold poetically sang Sqirl's praises in his L.A. Times review, calling founder Jessica Koslow "masterful." For LA Weekly, Besha Rodell said that Sqirl has "some of the most thoughtful, satisfying, beautifully executed food in town." And in what felt more like a love letter than a review, Bill Addison said "Sqirl is literally the neighborhood restaurant of my dreams."

The famous line at Sqirl, Silver Lake, CA

Koslow's new cookbook, Everything I Want to Eat, for sale at Sqirl, Silver Lake, CA

Impossibly hip clientele at Sqirl, Silver Lake, CA

So what was keeping me from brunching at Sqirl? For one, it's basically on the other side of the world (we West Siders are the worst, aren't we?). And if you're going to drive an hour for brunch, do you really want to wait at least thirty more minutes in line once you get there (after, god help you, you've hopefully found parking)? And then there's always that pesky fear that it won't live up to all that hype - that you will have trekked across the city and waited in a line that's the stuff of legends, all for something you could have made at home. I mean, how good could ricotta and jam on toast really be?

Chalkboard Menu at Sqirl, Silver Lake, CA

Outdoor seating at Sqirl, Silver Lake, CA

Well, friends, I'm here to tell you that I was wrong. Even as a staunch hater of lines (fact: I got out of bed before 6 am while on vacation to avoid waiting in line for donuts), I can confidently say that Sqirl is worth it. Ricotta and jam on toast can be really good, and unless you're Jessica Koslow, you can't make it like this at home. 

Jessica Koslow working the line at Sqirl, Silver Lake, CA

It all started with jam. Koslow, unhappy in her television production career, returned to a job she knew she loved - working in a kitchen. After some time in the South, learning the ins and outs of pastry and preserving, she returned to Southern California and started to make jam the old fashioned way, in a huge copper pot. Her seasonally rotating market-driven flavors were a hit, and before long, she'd opened up shop in Silver Lake. The jam operation later expanded to a café in the very same space, with the team behind G&B providing delicious coffee and Koslow offering a menu of bright, vegetable-forward breakfast and lunch fare. Koslow's food was thoughtful and innovative, often setting the perfect stage for her much-loved jams and preserves to shine. You can guess the rest: word got out, people started talking, and soon there was a permanent line around the block. 

The famous line at Sqirl, Silver Lake, CA

We joined that famed line at a respectable 9:30 on a Saturday morning (as all reports indicate that the line is actually at its worst at the opening time of 8:00 am), and while it was formidable, it was not as ghastly as I had once imagined. In fact, it moved quickly enough that I wasn't quite prepared to order by the time we made it to the register, let alone did I have time to take a moment to appreciate Koslow herself hard at work behind the counter. By the time we were through, a perfect table opened up, and we settled in with our coffees. There's an elegance to how Sqirl operates, no matter how chaotic it may seem from the outside. 

Menu at Sqirl, Silver Lake, CA

Brunch spread at Sqirl, Silver Lake, CA

As much as we wanted to taste absolutely everything on the menu, we restrained ourselves to four dishes: The Mosca Breakfast Sandwich, the Famed Ricotta Toast, Braised Chickpeas, and the Cauliflower Hash. We also had to sample a cappuccino with house-made almond milk and The “Al Puccino” - a sweetened iced cappuccino. 

Cappuccino with house-made almond milk at Sqirl, Silver Lake, CA

The coffees were both delicious - just what you would hope from a café that was home to the inception of G&B, one of L.A.'s absolute best coffee shops. The espresso was rich and flavorful, and the house-made almond milk was perfect. The "Al Puccino" will please those who like their coffee on the sweet side. It's also a fun treat to have a foamy cappuccino served cold - it's a rare find here in the states. 

The Mosca Breakfast Sandwich at Sqirl, Silver Lake, CA

The Mosca Breakfast Sandwich has both style and substance. Sure, it's great for the 'gram with a knife dramatically ensconced in its depths like the sword in the stone, a huge slab of griddled halloumi (be sure to add this when you order - it would be a mistake to skip it), a fried egg, and a healthy-sized chicken patty, all topped with a thick sauce of tomato, green peppers, and spices, and sandwiched between a shiny brioche bun. But then you bite into it, and it practically screams with flavor. When these already bold components combine - the savory chicken sausage, tangy halloumi, spiced menemen sauce - there is somehow harmony. Koslow didn't skimp on the fat in this dish, either, which makes it all the more decadent and satisfying. 

The Mosca Breakfast Sandwich at Sqirl, Silver Lake, CA

Braised Chickpeas and The Mosca Breakfast Sandwich at Sqirl, Silver Lake, CA

Served with an impractically long piece of toast (it's kind of comical how they refer to this as "long toast" on the menu - "long" doesn't begin to describe it), the Braised Chickpeas are a heartwarming, stick-to-your ribs breakfast. The stewed garbanzos are reminiscent of the middle eastern breakfast dish ful muddamas, delightfully soupy and flavored with bright lemon and spiced baharat oil. On top, thinly shredded chard add lightness and crunch, and two soft poached eggs make it that much more satisfying. You're going to want to slurp up all this delicious sauce - luckily you'll have enough bread to soak it up. 

Braised Chickpeas at Sqirl, Silver Lake, CA

Cauliflower Hash at Sqirl, Silver Lake, CA

Sqirl's Hash dish rotates seasonally, pairing fresh vegetables with roasted potatoes, fermented hot sauce, and a fried egg. The current special features tender roasted cauliflower, piri piri, and leeks. The hot sauce, served on the side, is really delicious and offers quite a kick. While simple, this dish was satisfying and felt healthy - especially since it came with a side of greens. 

Cauliflower Hash at Sqirl, Silver Lake, CA

Famed Ricotta Toast at Sqirl, Silver Lake, CA

Like the good children we are, we made sure to save our dessert for last: the Famed Ricotta Toast. It's truly the stuff of legend - it's the single-most Instagrammed dish in the world (I have no concrete evidence to support this, but I've got a strong hunch), and there are whole articles dedicated to the art of its construction. And yet somehow, the actual height of that brioche took me off guard. It's massive. But like other toasts you may have eaten since toast took over the world, this one is not a tooth-breaker. Though thoroughly toasted (read: nearly burnt), the brioche remains soft and supple, providing a buttery pillow for the impossibly creamy ricotta and the tart jam to rest on. The flavors are spot on; the play of sweet and tart to salty and buttery is heaven. Do not make the mistake of coming here and not ordering this. Just trust us. 

Famed Ricotta Toast at Sqirl, Silver Lake, CA

Brunch Spread at Sqirl, Silver Lake, CA

It's hard not to sensationalize a place that everyone in the world seems to love. You want to be a part of the excitement, to be a part of a movement, to eat the best thing you've ever tasted. On the other hand, it's also easy to unfairly criticize something popular just to be subversive. With this in mind, I maintain that Sqirl is great. Not everything we tasted was life-changing, but everything was good, and most was really good. If it weren't so far away, I'd be at Sqirl every week, just to make sure I could work my way through the entire menu. It's worth the hype, and it's worth a long drive - and I'm sorry I didn't experience it sooner. 

Sqirl, Silver Lake, CA

Sqirl
720 Virgil Ave #4
Los Angeles, CA 90029

Playa Provisions | Playa Del Rey, CA

Despite a turbulent political climate, it's been an exciting month for women - through events like A Day Without a Woman and Women's History Month, voices around the world have expressed support and admiration for the pivotal roles women play in business and society. Female empowerment is resonating loudly throughout the food world, as well - these days, some of L.A.'s hottest and most popular restaurants are helmed by women, from up-and-comers like Leona and Kismet to institutions like the Mozzaplex and Lucques. And earlier this month, foodies around the world witnessed two badass female chefs battle it out in the most recent finale of Top Chef. 

Chef Brooke Williamson, who ultimately took home the Top Chef title, is indeed a badass. Her passion for cooking propelled her to begin working in professional kitchens at age 18, and by age 24, she was executive chef at Boxer in Los Angeles. Today, she and her chef husband Nick Roberts own not one, but four restaurants in the Los Angeles area, as well as a beautifully curated culinary boutique. She's a woman on a mission, and she loves what she does. Oh, and she's currently sporting purple hair. It doesn't get much more badass than that. 

One of Williamson's four culinary ventures also happens to be a Brunchographers' mainstay - Playa Provisions. Located in Playa del Rey, a charming part of L.A. that feels like a small town on the East Coast, Playa Provisions is an ambitious concept. It combines four eateries in one - an ice cream parlor, a casual food counter, a whisky bar, and an upscale restaurant, all in a beautifully designed building just steps from the beach. And for the time being, while a new space is being constructed for it elsewhere, the foodie boutique Tripli-Kit is also housed inside. When all these concepts function at once, the massive space buzzes with life and activity. 

For weekend brunch, the full service restaurant portion (officially called "Dockside") is the place to be. Its outdoor patio is beautiful and relaxed, offering cozy blankets at each table and fire pits to huddle around when it's California-cold. The menu is varied, and reflects its seaside location with plenty of seafood and odes to New England fare. We love the cocktail list, which offers delicious and creative takes on the classics - which are perfect for sipping while enjoying some live music during a Saturday afternoon Jazz Brunch. 

On a recent visit, we sampled several cocktails - the Bloody Mary, served with a shrimp if you so choose, the Moscow Mule, and the Rose the Riveter, made with lemon, rosemary syrup, and sparkling rose. We had coffee as well, of course, which is strong and delicious, and comes in the daintiest little cups. 

We started the meal with some treats off the "from the baker" section of the menu. First, the dipping donuts: donut holes dusted with cinnamon sugar, and served with a delicious caramel sauce. These were light, sweet, and oh-so-satisfying when dipped into the sauce, and were a fun way to kick off the meal. Next were the biscuit bites; two-bite buttermilk biscuits served with rich dulce de leche. When paired with the rich and salty-sweet sauce, these buttery little biscuits are absolute heaven - and are hands down a must-try. 

For our entrees, we stuck to the breakfast side of the menu. The Skillet Baked Eggs are a colorful and healthy option, pairing seasonal vegetables with flavorful kale pesto, prosciutto, eggs, and arugula. It's impressive how many veggies are packed into this adorable cast iron skillet, and when paired with hearty egg and prosciutto, they become a hearty and satisfying meal. 

For the breakfast purists of the world, there is the Porchetta and Eggs. This reminded us of an elevated diner classic, with the standard bacon replaced by flavorful porchetta and dry toast replaced with delicate brioche toast. The crispy hashbrowns were exactly what you'd want for a Saturday morning indulgence - crispy on the outside, soft on the inside, and a little bit greasy (in a good way).  

Another riff on a classic was the breakfast sandwich, stuffed with sausage, eggs, gruyere, collards, avocado, and housemade hot sauce. The ciabatta bread was delicious, too - soft inside, toasty on the edges, and flavorful throughout.  

And finally, the pretzel croissant sandwich - one of our favorites. The lightly salted and buttery croissant is stuffed with soft scrambled eggs and bright arugula, offering a wonderful combination of textures and flavors. We subbed avocado in place of bacon, which added some satisfying creaminess into the mix. This manages to be satisfying and delicious, but not so heavy that you feel like you need to repent after - just the right amount of indulgence.

With Playa Provisions, Brooke Williamson and Nick Roberts have created a neighborhood staple that goes above and beyond, offering its customers not just a comfortable place to unwind, but a place to experience some seriously delicious food made with care and respect - not to mention yet another reason to be grateful for all the badass women in this world. 

Fun fact: that's Conan O'Brien in the bottom left corner.  

Playa Provisions
119 Culver Boulevard West
Playa del Rey, CA 90293

SALT | Marina del Rey, CA

When outsiders think about Los Angeles, they typically think of three things: movie stars, traffic, and the beach. When it comes to the reality of living in Los Angeles, the first two are certainly prevalent - it's impossible to count the celebrities we've seen over the years, and we've come to accept that half our lives will be spent behind the wheel - but the beach, for some of us, remains elusive. Many L.A. residents go weeks (months?) without seeing the Pacific, let alone do we find quality time to enjoy an ocean view over a nice meal. Ocean view brunches are just not a big thing here in L.A., and we think it's about time that changes. So, over the next few weeks, we're going to share with you our top picks for brunches by the beach - starting with SALT in Marina del Rey. 

Originally built in 1964, the Marina del Rey Hotel recently underwent a massive renovation, reemerging in early 2015 as a chic waterfront destination. To match, the hotel needed an equally chic and appealing restaurant, and Chef Mark Gold, formerly of Eva on Beverly, stepped up to the plate. As any proper hotel restaurant should, SALT offers three meals a day, as well as a happy hour each evening and brunch on weekends. Gold's cuisine highlights California's abundance of excellent produce, sourcing seasonal ingredients from local farmers markets, and as you might expect, also features a healthy amount of seafood. 

Like the rest of the hotel, the restaurant is beautiful; bright decor and light woods offer an upscale-beachy atmosphere, and marina-view patios on either side of the space provide an indoor-outdoor feel. Outside, cozy couches surround fire pits, and tables are lined up under giant heat lamps. There's not a bad view from any perch on the patio; it's easy imagine how romantic this must be at happy hour during sunset. 

At our recent brunch, SALT was lively but not packed, and felt a little bit like a spa for the senses - a perfect spot to ease into your day if you'd had a little bit too much "fun" the night before. The menu is surprisingly long, offering both the items you come to expect at a hotel restaurant (a "continental breakfast" with pastries, yogurt, and fruit; a caesar salad) as well as some more inventive selections (brûléed oatmeal, a Croque Madame, Shingoku oysters). There's also a healthy list of craft cocktails, though at 16 bucks a pop, this may not be your new go-to spot for marathon day drinking (it's perhaps a more choose-one-and-sip-it-slowly kind of place). Luckily, the coffee's good, and the staff is generous with the refills. 

While we attempted to come to terms with the massive menu, our server suggested a starter - the Avocado Hummus. Two undeniably delicious things mixed together, and it's dairy free (for my allergic husband, of course)? Sure, sign us up. This was a perfect way to ease into our meal - the hummus was creamy and light, and we loved the tang and crunch from the capers and seeds on top. The variety of vegetables is nice too, and I'm always a sucker for a caper berry. 

For our mains, we stuck to the breakfast half of the menu. First, a classic breakfast called the "All American Sailor" with cage free eggs, ham, roast potatoes, and toast, served with coffee or tea - a typical hotel-breakfast perk (and hey, we're not arguing with it). The flavorful ham was a real standout, and the eggs were perfectly cooked. While simple, this breakfast staple is satisfying and will fit the bill whenever you're craving good ol' eggs and potatoes. 

Next was SALT's take on the craze that just won't die: toast. This version started with a base of grilled country bread, then was topped with soft scrambled farm eggs and roasted wild mushrooms, and finished with brown butter and chive. The flavor combination was subtle and pleasant, with a lovely warmth provided from the roasted mushrooms and the brown butter. The heaping side of salad offered balance and lightness, resulting in an all-around satisfying meal. 

Finally, for something bordering on decadent, the Croque Madame. Bathed in sauce mornay, this gorgeous brioche sandwich featured Fra’mani ham, gruyere cheese, and a sunny side up farm egg. Again, the wonderfully flavorful ham was the real star of the dish, but it was complimented nicely by the sauce and cheese. Our egg was a bit overcooked, so we missed out on a #yolkporn moment, but the dish was still delightful. Besides, just look at that sauce mornay - maybe we can embrace it as #sauceporn instead. 

While SALT tends to be a little pricey, we love this spot for a special occasion or for entertaining out-of-towners. Its pleasing menu and modern elegance, coupled with that gorgeous view, will leave you feeling like you're finally living that glamorous L.A. lifestyle that everyone assumes you are. 

SALT at Marina del Rey Hotel
13534 Bali Way
Marina del Rey, CA 90292

The Conservatory for Coffee, Tea, and Cocoa | Culver City, CA

Believe it or not, I am less than halfway through my list of the 55 best coffee shops in Los Angeles. Even so, over these past few months I have met so many interesting and passionate people, explored areas of my city that I'd never seen before, and have learned so much about the hard work and artistry that goes into the cappuccinos I've enjoyed. And for the record, I have enjoyed each and every one. One unexpected perk of this process, however, has been reconnecting with people and places that I have loved, but haven't visited in a while - like this old favorite of mine, The Conservatory. 

Technically, it's called The Conservatory for Coffee, Tea, and Cocoa, but those of us in the know call it simply, The Conservatory. And there are a lot of people in the know here - almost every customer in line on my recent visit was a regular, and the staff had their orders memorized. It's no surprise that this family-run operation has amassed so many fiercely loyal customers; their house-roasted coffees and wide variety of teas have been setting the standard of excellence in their area for over 20 years. As it's situated just steps away from the Sony lot, on any given day you'll find production executives stopping by between meetings or a PA rattling off a laundry list of orders from their iPhone. The staff treats them all warmly and like family; you can tell they're genuinely happy to have them there. 

The café itself is charming and a little quirky; a huge papier-mâché tree looms in one corner while burlap coffee bags are stacked next to the beautiful vintage roaster in the other. Behind the counter, there's the "Great Wall of Tea" - rows of gleaming gold tins full of any type of loose leaf tea you could imagine. There's an eclectic mix of personal touches throughout, like a handwritten list of the day's coffee, beautiful potted orchids on the countertops, a collection of vintage coffee pots, and a huge American flag hanging over the espresso machine. It feels well-loved and lived-in, and something about it feels like home.  

Upon ordering, I settled in at a little bistro table with the locals, some having meetings, others laughing with their children, and a few cozied up with a good book. My cappuccino came adorned with a lovely lovely bit of foam art, served in a perfectly simple ceramic mug. Its flavor was bold and direct, offering an intense bitterness at the beginning of the sip that soon mellowed out into a smooth sweetness, a flavor that recalled toasted marshmallow and walnut. It was so satisfying and delicious that I was somewhat forlorn upon reaching the bottom. 

Apart from its wonderful espresso drinks, The Conservatory offers a wide variety of treats that are not to be missed, especially the rotating brewed coffee, the delicious scones and coffee cakes, and the rich, spicy Mexican Hot Chocolate. And on a hot summer day, nothing beats one of their refreshing iced teas. It's also worth noting that their almond milk of choice is Mylk, an exceptionally delicious raw concoction with simple ingredients that's made locally in Culver City. Definitely worth checking out if that's something you're in to. 

After experiencing so many excellent cappuccinos from some of the finest coffee roasters over these past few months, some small part of me feared that this old standby wouldn't live up to the fond memories I'd been harboring of it. Luckily, that fear was unfounded, and the coffee at The Conservatory was even better than I'd remembered. I may not work within walking distance of this gem anymore, but its unpretentious atmosphere and delicious coffee make it worthy of a regular visit - and who knows, maybe someday the staff will remember my order, too. 

The Conservatory for Coffee, Tea, and Cocoa
10117 Washington Blvd.
Culver City, CA 90232

Dudley Market | Venice, CA

It's safe to say that Los Angeles is now officially a "foodie town." We're no longer living in the culinary shadow of Northern California; we've got our own loud, colorful identity and it's finally being reflected in our restaurants, as well. From pop-up restaurants to fine dining establishments, chefs across the city are pulling out all the stops, showing off not just our region's incredible produce but their own capacity to innovate and entertain with food. 

Dudley Market is a perfect example of the changing landscape in Los Angeles' food culture. It's a little food oasis, hiding in what feels like a back alley just steps from Venice Beach. It's the kind of place you'd happen upon after taking a wrong turn while looking for someplace else. But once you'd soaked in the welcoming exterior, the pretty gold logo etched on the massive windows, and the tempting menu by the door, it's also the type of place that would charm you into forgetting wherever it was you were supposed to go. And then, you'd taste the food, and you'd start to wonder if it was here that you were meant to be all along. 

In the rustic, light-drenched space that was once a convenience store, Chef Wesley Barden is cooking up delicious, inventive cuisine that makes the most out of the bounty of produce he finds at local farmers markets. By day, Dudley Market feels welcoming and relaxed, serving home-baked pastries, comforting breakfast and lunch dishes, and grab-and-go snacks and drinks to locals as they wander off the beach. By night, it becomes a romantic, candlelit bistro, alive with conversation and laughter as diners savor elegant cuisine and thoughtfully selected wines.

The breakfast menu during the week is short but sweet; its six items somehow manage to cover all the bases. It would be hard to top the Smoked Salmon dish as a perfect, contained breakfast (unless, of course, you added an egg on the side... which I did). The homemade bagel is perfect, and the caraway kefir provides a light and tangy alternative to a basic cream cheese. The vegetable accompaniments make the dish feel special, providing freshness and sharp contrasts in both flavor and texture. But the star of the dish is, of course, the gorgeous and vibrant house-smoked salmon, delicately flavorful and tender.

During weekend brunch, the menu doubles in size, adding stick-to-your-ribs breakfast dishes and classic lunch fare, as well as bottomless mimosas. The Shrimp & Grits dish certainly falls under the stick-to-your-ribs category; it's hearty and comforting, but somehow doesn't feel heavy. The rustic cheese grits have a texture almost like buckwheat or oatmeal, and are thick, creamy, and oh-so-satisfying. On top, spicy shrimp, runny fried eggs, and a sweet onion marmalade create a harmonious flavor profile that elevates a simple country dish into something distinctive and memorable. 

The Farro Bowl was an unexpected surprise, combining a kitchen sink's worth of different textures and flavors into something surprisingly harmonious. Perhaps the most unusual component is the sieved egg, which is impossibly fluffy and light and melts into a salty creaminess when it hits the tongue. The farro is as nutty and firm as you would hope it to be, tossed in a light vinaigrette that offers just a hint acidity, and the radish slices add a satisfying crunch to each bite. There are also chunks of tangy citrus, earthy roasted mushrooms, and flecks of fragrant rosemary. What brings this all together is the luscious smear of whipped goat's cheese on the side of the bowl; it's lemony and bright and yet still savory, and it's so light and fluffy that it's almost cloud-like. We both agreed that we'd be satisfied with a bowl of this cheese alone, or maybe with a nice slice of baguette. It's divine. 

And because no good brunch goes without a bit of decadence, there are the Seany Cakes. This should probably be called simply Seany Cake, what with there being only a singular enormous cake, but the Seany Cakes are all about challenging your expectations. In fact, nothing about this dish is what you'd expect; the cake is thick and crispy on the outside, incredibly moist and steaming in the center, and sports a robust, yeasted flavor that barely approaches sweetness. On top, deliciously tart, syrupy blackberries and a mound of soft, sweet whipped cream that melts the moment it makes contact with the steaming hot cake. This is exactly the kind of dish that Sundays were made for. 

As the Los Angeles food culture continues to explode, deciding where to brunch next can be overwhelming - but perhaps we needn't look much farther than our own backyard. Hidden gems like Dudley Market are out there, offering something special and unique (and downright delicious) to their communities. Taking the time to discover them can be an adventure in itself - and hey, if at the end of the adventure there are some bottomless mimosas, we certainly won't complain. 

Dudley Market
9 Dudley Ave
Venice, CA 90291