Brunchographers

Lovingly documenting our favorite weekend ritual over coffee, cocktails, and compelling conversation.

Brunchographers: Lovingly documenting our favorite weekend ritual over coffee, cocktails, and compelling conversation.

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A Delicious Detour into New York City

January 12, 2018 by Veronica Kablan in Travel

It's quite possible that Los Angeles is the ultimate brunch destination, with tourists crowding hotspots like République for weekday brunch and lining up at The Grove for Cronuts and coffee. But if any city gives our devoted brunch culture a run for its money, it's the Big Apple - so it should be no surprise that I jumped at the chance to start my holiday vacation a little early and take a quick trip to New York City. While we were only there a few nights, we managed to sneak in plenty of delicious meals - getting lost in the city's massive museums and basking in the glow of all the glittering holiday decorations requires fuel, after all.


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Jack's Wife Freda

New York's frigid winter air was hardly a deterrent for the crowds of well-dressed millenials lined up outside Jack's Wife Freda; some parka-clad brunchers even dared to accept a table on the chilly sidewalk - that's true brunch dedication if I've ever seen it. As popular as the cozy, minimal café seems to be (even on a weekday morning), service is swift and friendly, and you'll be hard-pressed to reach the bottom of your coffee cup before it's refilled. It's the bits of Middle Eastern flair set this menu apart: a crisp and fluffy waffle is infused with fragrant rosewater and comes topped with creamy labneh and honey syrup, while perfectly poached eggs are served atop tangy slices of griddled halloumi and tomatoes. 


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Russ & Daughters 

A trip to New York City is incomplete without a bagel and lox for breakfast, and if you're going to go for smoked fish, you may as well do it right and head over to Russ & Daughters. These days, you can partake of this New York institution's incredible smoked fish at either the shop (owned and operated by the Russ family since 1914), or at the café a few blocks down, where you can linger over an egg cream at the old-school soda fountain bar or cozy up in a booth with a mug of joe. We kept it simple and ordered The Classic Board: tender sliced Gaspe Nova Salmon, a mound of fluffy cream cheese, crisp sliced tomato, onion, and capers, and of course, a toasted everything bagel. The smoked salmon was delicate and buttery, and was easily some of the best we've had. 


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Caracas Arepa Bar

When traveling with a partner (romantic or not), it's a good practice to allow each party to choose at least one non-negotiable destination per trip, so neither party feels cheated by the (let's face it, brunch-centric) itinerary. My husband's non-negotiable stop this time just happened to be the star of the entire trip: Caracas Arepa Bar, a tiny Venezuelan restaurant in the Lower East Side with milk crates for chairs that could almost be called a hole in the wall. We've both had our fair share of arepas in our days (my husband's family is partially Venezuelan), but these were special: the fillings were bold and flavorful, stuffed generously inside sliced arepas that were crisp on the outside and pillowy on the inside. All at once sweet, soft, salty, and oh-so-satisfying, this is the kind of food that warms both your belly and your heart. Around Christmas, Caracas also serves hallacas, a Venezuelan version of a tamale wrapped in a banana leaf and filled with mixed meats and vegetables. These are a rare and delicious treat, and are not to be missed if you happen in around the holidays. 


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Cookshop

If you've made it this far, you'll be happy to know that I've saved the best for last: Cookshop. This bright and airy spot is conveniently just steps away from The High Line (making it a perfect spot to pop in for breakfast before a day of exploring Chelsea), though it deserves to be a destination all its own. Don't expect over-the-top, gimmicky Instagram bait here - what makes Cookshop special is its ability to elevate simple, humble food into something truly special. Take my husband's meal, The Breakfast Board: two soft boiled eggs, housemade almond butter, jam, whole grain toast, and market lettuce salad. Simple components that you've certainly tasted before, but that somehow, when sourced from the best possible purveyors and when prepared with care, become something exceptional. But the best thing we tasted here (which was also the best thing I ate on the trip) was without contest was the Poached Eggs Cilbir. At the base is a layer of creamy fresh pressed yogurt, which is then smeared with a boldly flavored spiced sweet potato hummus. On top, two beautifully poached eggs and a generous drizzle of smoked chili oil. Crisp sourdough is served alongside to sop up this flavorful concoction, though you'll still wrestle with the temptation to lick the bottom of the bowl once you're done. 


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Honorable Mentions 

Of course, not every meal eaten can be brunch, and there were plenty of indulgences that were enjoyed in the dark of night, or when we didn't have the camera handy. Roberta's was a favorite stop for thin-crust, ooey-gooey pizza and a formidable wine list - and of course, a peek at Heritage Radio Network's studio, where one of our favorite podcasts, Radio Cherry Bombe, is recorded. For something both bitter and sweet, we'll never forget the delicious halva and freshly milled tahini from Seed + Mill - I've already mail-ordered plenty of this delicious stuff, and am admittedly addicted. If street food is your jam, a huge gyro or falafel platter drizzled in hot sauce and yogurt from The Halal Guys can't be beat, especially on a chilly evening. Finally, our hotel's restaurant, The Vine, surprised us with both its delicious, healthy food and its gorgeous, comfortable design. The vegetable-centered, perfectly-seasoned bowls were just what we needed after a long flight, and the Avocado & Green Pea Toast with sprouts, lemon zest, and poached eggs gave L.A. a run for its money.

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Did we miss your favorite spot in NYC? Let us know in the comments, so we can make sure to check it out next time we're in town!

 

January 12, 2018 /Veronica Kablan
Travel, New York City, waffles, Arepas, Muffins, Eggs, Bagel
Travel
3 Comments
Buckwheat Waffle, Seasonal Sangria, and Fruit Salad at Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Buckwheat Waffle, Seasonal Sangria, and Fruit Salad at Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Akasha | Culver City, CA

September 30, 2017 by Veronica Kablan in Los Angeles Restaurants

It’s hard to imagine a time when words like “seasonal,” "local," and “sustainable” weren’t necessary bylines on every restaurant menu. In today’s market, concepts like these are all but obligatory - but just under ten years ago, when Akasha Richmond opened her namesake restaurant in the historic Hull Building in Culver City, things looked a little different. Healthy eating at the time often conjured images of alfalfa sprouts and mashed yeast, and thoughtful details like biodegradable takeout containers were enough to warrant commentary from the likes of S. Irene Virbila. But Richmond forged on, developing an organic, farm-to-table menu that remains both surprising and innovative, sourcing biodynamic wines and craft cocktails, and offering a robust set of options for vegans and vegetarians… any of that sound familiar?

Akasha Restaurant in the historic Hull Building, Culver City, CA

Akasha Restaurant in the historic Hull Building, Culver City, CA

Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Café space at Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Café space at Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Indeed, Akasha Richmond was doing all those things before they were cool; even at the risk of being labeled “crunchy-granola.” And when you dig a little deeper into Richmond’s past, it's apparent that such a title wouldn’t be so far off the mark: while she’s a self-taught cook who learned her craft at home under the guidance of family, Richmond’s love affair with cooking truly began while living at an ashram and working for Yogi Bhajan at The Golden Temple, a famed vegetarian cafe that once catered to Hollywood’s elite. So it’s no wonder that a healthy dose of crunchy-granola makes its way into her cuisine, though when set amongst a well-rounded menu with influences reaching as far as India and the Middle East (a result of her extensive world travels as a personal chef to the stars, no doubt), it’s hardly noticeable. Especially when that granola is really, really good. 

Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Even today, when the restaurant landscape is saturated with responsibly-sourced, healthful options, the cuisine at Akasha remains relevant. There’s no question that a nourishing, healthful meal is what our bodies need - and by crafting thoughtful, elevated cuisine using those healthful ingredients, Richmond is able to translate that need into a want. At dinner, farmers market vegetables are paired with fragrant herbs and luxurious cheeses, pasture-raised meats are enhanced with exotic spices, and onion rings are made impossibly crispy using only gluten-free and vegan ingredients. At brunch, farm eggs are served alongside grass-fed steak, house-made granola is submerged in fresh almond milk, and buttermilk pancakes are made hearty with whole wheat flour. The result is a menu packed with all the favorites you’d hope to find, made with ingredients you can feel good about. 

Lemon Bird Preserves available at Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Lemon Bird Preserves available at Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Patio at Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Patio at Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Bar area at Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Bar area at Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Prosecco Fizz (front) and Seasonal Sangria (rear) at Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Prosecco Fizz (front) and Seasonal Sangria (rear) at Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Even the cocktail list at Akasha is infused with choice produce - our Prosecco Fizz came topped with a dollop of vibrant fresh sorbet, and the Seasonal Sangria is garnished with chopped peaches and plump raspberries. If your cocktail doesn’t meet your daily fruit quota, the Fresh Fruit Salad will fill the gap - apples, berries, and mangoes are married with just a touch of local honey, and optional greek yogurt is available for an added burst of protein. 

Seasonal Sangria at Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Seasonal Sangria at Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Fruit Salad at Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Fruit Salad at Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Fruit Salad at Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Fruit Salad at Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Shakshouka at Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Shakshouka at Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

If vegetables for breakfast are your jam, then look no further than Akasha’s Shakshouka - two eggs are baked to jammy-perfection in a sea of saffron tomato sauce and tender braised greens, accented with a hint of spice and dotted with salty, tangy feta cheese. On the side, two slices of lightly charred ciabatta offer a vehicle for leftover sauce - and are especially useful for scraping up those stuck-on bits around the edges (in our opinion, the very best part). 

Shakshouka at Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Shakshouka at Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Seasonal Sangria, Buckwheat Waffle, Prosecco Fizz, Fruit Salad, and Shakshouka at Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Seasonal Sangria, Buckwheat Waffle, Prosecco Fizz, Fruit Salad, and Shakshouka at Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Buckwheat Waffle at Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Buckwheat Waffle at Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Perhaps the most perfect example of sinful-meets-healthful can be found in the Buckwheat Waffle. Here, a crispy-on-the-outside, warm-and-fluffy-on-the-inside waffle is made wholesome with buckwheat, offering a texture that feels both substantial and comforting. On top, a lightly salty cinnamon butter gently melts beneath warm caramelized bananas and luscious salted caramel sauce, filling the waffle’s nooks and crannies with a melt-in-your-mouth ambrosia. Maybe we’re suckers for that moment when sweet meets salty, but to us, it doesn’t get much better than this. 

Buckwheat Waffle at at Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Buckwheat Waffle at at Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Buckwheat Waffle at at Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Buckwheat Waffle at at Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Buckwheat Waffle at at Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Buckwheat Waffle at at Akasha Restaurant, Culver City, CA

Whether it was all that time spent practicing with Yogi Bhajan or just some natural sixth sense, Akasha Richmond somehow knew what was next for Los Angeles’ food scene long before we did. By achieving decadent flavors with natural, responsibly-sourced ingredients, Akasha meets us at the intersection of what we want and what we need. 

Akasha Restaurant in the historic Hull Building, Culver City, CA

Akasha Restaurant in the historic Hull Building, Culver City, CA

Akasha Restaurant in the historic Hull Building, Culver City, CA

Akasha Restaurant in the historic Hull Building, Culver City, CA

Akasha
9543 Culver Boulevard,
Culver City CA 90232
 

September 30, 2017 /Veronica Kablan
Culver City, Waffles, Akasha, Eggs, Restaurants in Culver City
Los Angeles Restaurants
2 Comments
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AR Cucina | Culver City, CA

July 29, 2017 by Veronica Kablan in Los Angeles Restaurants

While we may not know her personally, we feel a little bit like Akasha Richmond is an old, dear friend of ours. Throughout our years in Culver City, she’s always been there, in a beautiful brick building on the corner of Washington and Watseka, ready to serve up breakfast, lunch, afternoon coffee, or dinner. Her food is both delicious and healthful, with plenty of options no matter what your current dietary restriction might be. Akasha is a mainstay in the ever-changing landscape of the Culver City restaurant scene - even if the place you were planning to try suddenly closed, or if that other place that your coworkers were talking about has a line out the door, Akasha is there for you, and her food’s probably better than that place with the line, anyway. 

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So when your old friend Akasha opens up a new eatery just a stone’s throw from the original, there’s cause for celebration. Such was the case when Sambar, Akasha’s upscale take on Indian food, opened up shop. With fun, funky cocktails, wildly flavorful sauces, and a pillowy turmeric naan that could knock your socks off, the celebration was real. But in just over a year, Sambar caught the dreaded Culver City restaurant flu and disappeared. Fortunately, the morning period was brief, because just as soon as Sambar disappeared, AR Cucina materialized, swapping masala for margharita. At first glance, not much had changed (it underwent a very minor makeover in which some of its quirky Indian decor was swapped out for a more rustic, Italian look), and the restaurant’s biggest draws remained in tact - a spacious covered outdoor patio for an al fresco happy hour, a massive bar with creative cocktails, and a tempting menu with options for just about everyone. 

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AR Cucina pays tribute to Akasha’s extensive time spent traveling throughout Italy, where she studied the craft of Italian cooking and food production. The tenets of classic Italian cooking pair perfectly with Akasha’s cooking philosophy - as with her namesake restaurant, offerings at AR Cucina change seasonally and are made with the highest quality ingredients possible, either sourced locally or thoughtfully imported. Another carry-over from Akasha is a wealth of options for those following a specific diet, including plenty of vegetable-forward meatless dishes, a couple of vegan cheeses, and gluten-free pastas and pastries. To tie it all together, AR Cucina offers a lively cocktail program headed up by beverage director Clare Ward, which most notably features six different takes on a Negroni and a rotating menu of fun, seasonal tipples. 

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In classic Akasha Richmond style, AR Cucina breaks the rules and has its own version of Italy-meets-California cuisine, a blend illustrated perfectly by the brunch menu. To start, pastries, bruchettas, and salads highlighting California staples like avocados, beets, and figs. Next, a section for classic American breakfast lovers: "piatta all' uovo," or "big plates with eggs." Then, sandwiches, pastas, and pizza, for the brunchers who really just want a big Italian lunch. There's dessert, too, of course, but we'll get to that later. 

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We began our brunch with a cocktail, because with names like "Sophia Loren," "Italian Stallion," and "Francesca Verde," we were too charmed to resist. We opted for the "Sorrento Spritz," a rose-colored beauty with aperitivo, limoncello, strawberry-basil shrub, rosé, and seltzer. This was bright, flavorful, and refreshing - a great way to ease into a slow summer morning. 

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Even with two dairy-allergic brunch dates, we found that there were plenty of options for everyone. For a starter, we sampled the Bruschetta, which is essentially AR Cucina's Italian version of toast: slices of toasted ciabatta topped with strawberry-rosemary jam and almond ricotta. It's a crunchy, tangy, shareable riff on Sqirl's famed ricotta toast, and it also happens to be dairy-free. Just like the varieties that are so popular next door at Akasha, the strawberry-rosemary jam is tart and packed with flavor, and it pairs perfectly with the creamy almond ricotta. 

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For brunch purists, there is the Two Eggs and Toast, served with either chicken sausage or bacon. We opted for the house-made chicken sausage, juicy, hand-molded patties that had just a bit of a kick. For something with a bit more color, the Polenta Cake & Short Rib Ragu is sure to please - with triangles of soft, creamy polenta, a heap of crisp, colorful salad, and perfect runny eggs atop a rich short rib ragu, this dish manages to maintain balance between light and heavy. 

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When comfort food is in order, the Porchetta Hash is the way to go. Tender fingerling potatoes absorb the juicy flavors of succulent, herb-roasted pork, are topped with two runny fried eggs, and are served alongside a few slices of rustic toast. That last bit is crucial, really - the rich, decadent combination is begging to be sopped up with some crisp-yet-absorbent bread. 

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Finally, the Brunch Pizza offers a chance to satisfy your need for both breakfast and lunch, whether viewed through its half-breakfast, half-lunch components or simply its double-meal-worthy size. It looks a bit like a work of art, with pizza dough for a canvas, dotted with hunks of house-made sausage and a creamy baked egg, painted with vibrant tomato sauce and melted cheese, accented with wilted spring onions and curly arugula. The crust's edges are crisp and kissed with char, and the egg's yolk is creamy and smooth. It's certainly enough to share, but no one would judge you if you chose not to. 

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If brunch-dessert is your thing, you will not be disappointed - Akasha's popular homemade ice creams and cookies are available here, alongside more formal desserts like tiramisu or olive oil cake. We sampled the delicious seasonal peach crostata, with two flavors of ice cream on the side (because the lactose-intolerant deserve some dessert, too). The crostata is simple, buttery, and not too sweet - just what you'd hope a good summer peach tart would be. Sea salt caramel gelato provided a creamy, almost savory accompaniment to the crostata, while the dark chocolate sorbetto offered a rich, darker opposition. 

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Between the delightful cocktails, a perfect outdoor perch, and spot-on flavors throughout the meal, our old friend Akasha did not let us down with her take on Italian brunch. Here's hoping that AR Cucina will remain in our regular Culver City rotation for many years to come. 

AR Cucina
9531 Culver Blvd
Culver City, CA 90232

July 29, 2017 /Veronica Kablan
Akasha, Culver City, Italian, Eggs, Cocktails, Restaurants in Culver City
Los Angeles Restaurants
4 Comments
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Otium | Downtown Los Angeles, CA

July 18, 2017 by Veronica Kablan in Los Angeles Restaurants

Los Angeles is a city of art lovers. There are museums galore, galleries to suit any taste, murals around every corner, and exhibits so popular that lines form down the block on a regular basis. One such wildly popular attraction is The Broad, a giant perforated marshmallow of a museum in Downtown Los Angeles that houses works from some of modern art’s most notable figures. A visit requires advance tickets, a schlep through traffic, and some predictably expensive parking. It is fortunate then, that located just beside the glowing white behemoth is the pretty little wood-and-glass cube that is home to Otium, where the artistic experience extends beyond the visual and into the pleasures of the palate. 

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Inside, Chef Timothy Hollingsworth has created a gallery of his own. Every surface and detail of the restaurant has been carefully curated; handcrafted pottery and custom furniture is displayed alongside large-scale art installations. Food preparation is on display for all to see, as chefs roll out sheets of fresh pasta just inches from seated diners and a mid-meal leisurely stroll past the wood-fired ovens in the open kitchen is encouraged. As Hollingsworth discusses in a video series created by Life & Thyme, Otium is at its heart a collaborative effort - each element has been lovingly made by an artisan, each inspired by the passions of their fellow makers, all adding up to a singularly unique experience. 

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Served atop hand-thrown ceramic plates and bowls, Hollingsworth’s food is as much an artistic statement as any piece in the museum next door. On paper, each dish is a simple list of ingredients; in person, an inventive assemblage worthy of a canvas. The level of artistry displayed is most commonly found in fine dining establishments, yet Otium offers it in an approachable, relaxed manner appropriate for a casual family dinner or a quick lunch after perusing the galleries nearby. 

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Brunch is a perfect time to experience Otium’s offerings, when mid-morning light floods the airy space and the outdoor patio overlooks views of families gathering in the grassy park out front. Refreshing summer cocktails are offered in abundance, and a menu full of small, shareable dishes encourages a slow, relaxed dining experience. 

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Maid cocktail at Otium, Downtown Los Angeles, CA

Maid cocktail at Otium, Downtown Los Angeles, CA

We started our recent brunch with a simple cocktail called a Maid, in which vibrant green cucumber and mint mingle with vodka and simple syrup to create a bright, refreshing sip. Served with a block of crystal-clear ice and a sprig of fresh mint, it was beautiful in its simplicity. We also sampled some lattes made with almond milk - in to-go cups, so we could sip them slowly and take them with us - a delicious option for those looking for a bit of caffeine with their brunch. 

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Avocado Salad at Otium, Downtown Los Angeles, CA

Avocado Salad at Otium, Downtown Los Angeles, CA

Our group of three shared four dishes, the first of which was a salad with avocado, beets, wild rice, amaranth, grapefruit, radishes, and miso. The clever preparation of the ingredients - grapefruit char-grilled, rice crisped, sauce pooled underneath - transformed a simple salad into something unexpected. 

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Next was the Mole: blue corn tortillas and fried eggs smothered in a rich chocolatey sauce, drizzled with crema, and sprinkled with cotija and cilantro. With an ingredient for every color of the rainbow and its array of sauces arranged with painterly flair, this dish felt the most like it deserved to be framed and hung on the wall. Its flavors lived up to its beauty, as well - the richness of the mole, the runny egg, and the avocado played nicely against the spice, tang, and crunch offered by the dish’s colorful toppings. 

Mole at Otium, Downtown Los Angeles, CA

Mole at Otium, Downtown Los Angeles, CA

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We couldn’t resist the Hoe Cake (both its name and description charmed us immediately), a crunchy-on-the-outside, fluffy-on-the-inside cornmeal cake that hovered somewhere between sweet and savory. On top, it was festooned with generously dressed kale, thin slices of bright red peppers, and crispy fried nuggets of chicken. This dish’s unexpected texture combinations proved satisfying and fun, and its flavors were paired expertly.  

Hoe Cake at Otium, Downtown Los Angeles, CA

Hoe Cake at Otium, Downtown Los Angeles, CA

Crispy Potatoes at Otium, Downtown Los Angeles, CA

Crispy Potatoes at Otium, Downtown Los Angeles, CA

Last but certainly not least, we opted for a side of crispy potatoes with lemon salt, Aleppo pepper, and crème fraîche. When visiting an art gallery, it’s important to remember that it is not always the largest painting in the room that is the most impressive - sometimes it’s the tiny little portrait tucked in the corner that will leave you awestruck. These potatoes are that portrait. Hiding so humbly at the bottom of the menu, you might pass them by without a second thought - but that would be a grave mistake. These are perfectly prepared, crisp on the outside, soft on the inside, and seasoned with aplomb. On the side, a velvety dipping sauce, whipped to creamy perfection with a generous amount of spice. They’re heaven in a side dish. 

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Providing sustenance for both the eyes and for the belly, Otium is the perfect ode to a city that is nearly as obsessed with its art as it is with its food. 

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Otium
222 South Hope Street
Los Angeles, CA 90012

July 18, 2017 /Veronica Kablan
Cocktails, DTLA, Eggs, Los Angeles, Museums
Los Angeles Restaurants
Comment

Primo Italia | Torrance, CA

Primo Italia
July 07, 2017 by Veronica Kablan in Los Angeles Restaurants

It's no secret that the breakfasting habits of Italians and Americans are wildly different. A traditional breakfast in Italy is little more than a croissant and a cappuccino, while in the States, we stereotypically tuck into enormous plates of fried eggs, hashbrowns, toast, and bacon. Yes, these may be exaggerated versions of the truth (I don't know about you, but you won't often catch me eating diner-style breakfast on an average weekday morning), but they are at least partially based in fact. To put it simply, food before noon is done differently in Italy, and brunch is not high on their priority list. There are a few things, however, that we can all agree on - for one, we all love Italian food. For another, we can all appreciate the time-honored concept of a grand Sunday meal. Whether it's the Americans' leisurely mid-morning mashup of breakfast and lunch with friends or the Italians' abundant multi-course family affair that stretches into the late afternoon, everyone can agree that Sundays are best spent eating delicious food and enjoying the company of loved ones. 

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How best can we celebrate this overlap in the cultural Venn diagram of our two countries' eating habits? Why, by partaking in a long, leisurely Italian-inspired Sunday brunch, of course. Fortunately, the concept of Italian restaurants serving brunch is not foreign to Southern California, so finding that beautiful marriage between vibrant Italian flavors and comforting classic brunch is completely within your grasp. Especially if you live near Torrance - where you will find the delightful Primo Italia, nestled on the top of a little hill. 

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What is most evident about Primo Italia upon entering is its unique blend of elegance and coziness; displays of tchotchkes and knick-knacks are paired with luxurious contemporary seating and a sleek marble bar. There's a baby grand piano and an old-fashioned microphone situated by the entrance, inviting you to come back in the evening for a live performance that will undoubtedly transport you to another place and time. Framed old photos tell the stories of charismatic owner Lou Giovannetti's Italian-American family, who worked hard to provide a comfortable life for their children back in New York, and who appreciated the importance of spending time with family and sharing good food. 

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A sense of reverence for the past is tangible here, and it extends well beyond the decorating philosophy and into the kitchen. Chef Michelangelo Aliaga, who Giovannetti calls "a true heritage-based Italian cook," moved to the States at the age of 19, and worked his way up through some of the most loved Italian restaurants in the country. His strong culinary background and his passion for history shine through in his extensive dinner menu; each dish tells a story about a place and time in Italian history. The brunch menu is similarly substantial: its upper half is devoted to Italian takes on breakfast classics, and its lower half features some lunch-appropriate favorites from the dinner menu. 

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As tempting as the lower half of the menu was, as brunch enthusiasts, we were naturally inclined toward the top half of Aliaga's menu - specifically toward dishes that combined some of our favorite things: eggs and tomatoes. First was the Uova in Purgatorio, or Eggs in Purgatory: two eggs baked in a cast iron skillet with a spicy tomato sauce, served with crusty bread and soft, creamy cheese. The dish was piping hot (even after we'd spent several minutes photographing it) thanks to the skillet, yet the egg yolks remained perfectly cooked and runny. The flavorful sauce highlighted the tangy tomatoes, and supported their bright flavor with a satisfying, subtle spiciness. Bread is a must in a dish like this, and this airy Italian loaf was the perfect vehicle for the saucy, yolky, creamy meal - next time, we'll ask for an extra slice. 

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Next was the Omelette di Burrata Pomodoro e Basilico, a fluffy omelette stuffed with Italian staples like creamy burrata cheese, fresh heirloom tomatoes, and aromatic basil. This dish is a perfect example of the Italian tradition of combining just a few simple, high quality ingredients to create something delightfully uncomplicated. It's served alongside some well-cooked potatoes and crunchy bacon, with a few extra slices of those divine, in-season tomatoes as an extra treat. 

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A dessert course is an important part of a leisurely brunch, so something sweet was in order to end our meal - the Ricotta Pancake. This dish, while not what you'd normally expect from a pancake, fits its description perfectly: it is a super-dense, creamy cake, baked and served in a cast-iron pan. So yeah, a literal pan-cake. Topped with baked apples, a generous dousing of house-made honey syrup, and a dollop of ricotta, this was a sweet and satisfying end to our meal. Make sure you get a top-up on your coffee before this dish, too - the combination is delightful. 

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While the Italian tradition of a big, Sunday meal with family may not exist in most of modern America, it's clear that many of us still yearn for the warm, comforting, nostalgic feeling that such a meal inspires. Perhaps our new tradition of brunch is a response to this need, a way to establish human connection and bonding over an activity that everyone enjoys, on a day that is meant for rest and reflection. Primo Italia offers the perfect environment for embracing this practice - with heartwarming food, a kind and welcoming staff, and a relaxed, beautiful space, you'll feel like you've come home to your big, Italian family just in time for Sunday supper. Mangiamo!

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Primo Italia
24590 Hawthorne Boulevard
Torrance, Ca 90505 

July 07, 2017 /Veronica Kablan
Italian, South Bay, Torrance, Eggs, Pancakes
Los Angeles Restaurants
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