A Delicious Detour into New York City

January 12, 2018 by Veronica Kablan in Travel

It's quite possible that Los Angeles is the ultimate brunch destination, with tourists crowding hotspots like République for weekday brunch and lining up at The Grove for Cronuts and coffee. But if any city gives our devoted brunch culture a run for its money, it's the Big Apple - so it should be no surprise that I jumped at the chance to start my holiday vacation a little early and take a quick trip to New York City. While we were only there a few nights, we managed to sneak in plenty of delicious meals - getting lost in the city's massive museums and basking in the glow of all the glittering holiday decorations requires fuel, after all.

Jack's Wife Freda

New York's frigid winter air was hardly a deterrent for the crowds of well-dressed millenials lined up outside Jack's Wife Freda; some parka-clad brunchers even dared to accept a table on the chilly sidewalk - that's true brunch dedication if I've ever seen it. As popular as the cozy, minimal café seems to be (even on a weekday morning), service is swift and friendly, and you'll be hard-pressed to reach the bottom of your coffee cup before it's refilled. It's the bits of Middle Eastern flair set this menu apart: a crisp and fluffy waffle is infused with fragrant rosewater and comes topped with creamy labneh and honey syrup, while perfectly poached eggs are served atop tangy slices of griddled halloumi and tomatoes.

Russ & Daughters

A trip to New York City is incomplete without a bagel and lox for breakfast, and if you're going to go for smoked fish, you may as well do it right and head over to Russ & Daughters. These days, you can partake of this New York institution's incredible smoked fish at either the shop (owned and operated by the Russ family since 1914), or at the café a few blocks down, where you can linger over an egg cream at the old-school soda fountain bar or cozy up in a booth with a mug of joe. We kept it simple and ordered The Classic Board: tender sliced Gaspe Nova Salmon, a mound of fluffy cream cheese, crisp sliced tomato, onion, and capers, and of course, a toasted everything bagel. The smoked salmon was delicate and buttery, and was easily some of the best we've had.

Caracas Arepa Bar

When traveling with a partner (romantic or not), it's a good practice to allow each party to choose at least one non-negotiable destination per trip, so neither party feels cheated by the (let's face it, brunch-centric) itinerary. My husband's non-negotiable stop this time just happened to be the star of the entire trip: Caracas Arepa Bar, a tiny Venezuelan restaurant in the Lower East Side with milk crates for chairs that could almost be called a hole in the wall. We've both had our fair share of arepas in our days (my husband's family is partially Venezuelan), but these were special: the fillings were bold and flavorful, stuffed generously inside sliced arepas that were crisp on the outside and pillowy on the inside. All at once sweet, soft, salty, and oh-so-satisfying, this is the kind of food that warms both your belly and your heart. Around Christmas, Caracas also serves hallacas, a Venezuelan version of a tamale wrapped in a banana leaf and filled with mixed meats and vegetables. These are a rare and delicious treat, and are not to be missed if you happen in around the holidays.

Cookshop

If you've made it this far, you'll be happy to know that I've saved the best for last: Cookshop. This bright and airy spot is conveniently just steps away from The High Line (making it a perfect spot to pop in for breakfast before a day of exploring Chelsea), though it deserves to be a destination all its own. Don't expect over-the-top, gimmicky Instagram bait here - what makes Cookshop special is its ability to elevate simple, humble food into something truly special. Take my husband's meal, The Breakfast Board: two soft boiled eggs, housemade almond butter, jam, whole grain toast, and market lettuce salad. Simple components that you've certainly tasted before, but that somehow, when sourced from the best possible purveyors and when prepared with care, become something exceptional. But the best thing we tasted here (which was also the best thing I ate on the trip) was without contest was the Poached Eggs Cilbir. At the base is a layer of creamy fresh pressed yogurt, which is then smeared with a boldly flavored spiced sweet potato hummus. On top, two beautifully poached eggs and a generous drizzle of smoked chili oil. Crisp sourdough is served alongside to sop up this flavorful concoction, though you'll still wrestle with the temptation to lick the bottom of the bowl once you're done.

Honorable Mentions

Of course, not every meal eaten can be brunch, and there were plenty of indulgences that were enjoyed in the dark of night, or when we didn't have the camera handy. Roberta's was a favorite stop for thin-crust, ooey-gooey pizza and a formidable wine list - and of course, a peek at Heritage Radio Network's studio, where one of our favorite podcasts, Radio Cherry Bombe, is recorded. For something both bitter and sweet, we'll never forget the delicious halva and freshly milled tahini from Seed + Mill - I've already mail-ordered plenty of this delicious stuff, and am admittedly addicted. If street food is your jam, a huge gyro or falafel platter drizzled in hot sauce and yogurt from The Halal Guys can't be beat, especially on a chilly evening. Finally, our hotel's restaurant, The Vine, surprised us with both its delicious, healthy food and its gorgeous, comfortable design. The vegetable-centered, perfectly-seasoned bowls were just what we needed after a long flight, and the Avocado & Green Pea Toast with sprouts, lemon zest, and poached eggs gave L.A. a run for its money.

Did we miss your favorite spot in NYC? Let us know in the comments, so we can make sure to check it out next time we're in town!

20th Century Café | San Francisco, CA

April 07, 2017 by Veronica Kablan in Travel

I've always been charmed by the idea that a person can be born into the wrong era. It's a romantic concept, really, that a certain personality and a specific time period might be tied together cosmically, like soulmates. Some souls do seem a bit displaced, forever longing for a time when life was much simpler; when clothing was made lovingly by hand rather than in mass quantities at a factory, and folks spent time talking face-to-face instead of typing on a screen. Michelle Polzine, a pastry goddess and vintage aficionado, appears to be one such displaced soul. Stepping into her restaurant, 20th Century Café, is like following her back in time - if you can ignore the iPad at the ordering station, of course.

Every tiny detail in the café has been carefully curated in order to create the perfect vintage aesthetic: art deco lamps hang from above, small marble tables are lined up against a velvet banquette, elaborate bronzed tiles cover the front of a long bar, and most of the staff is decked out in 1940's-style vintage dresses and aprons. Inspired by the darling little cafés she experienced in Vienna, Budapest, and Prague, this light-drenched space offers locals a beautiful spot to relax and enjoy an afternoon, with a side of exquisite handmade pastries, of course.

And about those pastries... Polzine knows her stuff. Armed with years of experience as a pastry chef, Polzine creates sweet and savory delights that are so good, they provide regular homesickness relief for Eastern European expats. The counter is stacked high with knishes, bagels, babkas, and strudels, and each is more beautiful than the next. These baked goods make up the core of the menu at 20th Century Café, which is rounded out by lunch items like soups, sandwiches, and salads.

On our recent weekend trip to San Francisco, our dear friends took us to 20th Century Café for a late brunch. They'd been singing is praises for months - telling tales of the handmade bagels, bright pink borscht, and the unbelievably delicious (and beautiful) Russian Honey Cake. These are the sort of friends who know their food, so when they fall in love with a place, you know you're in for a treat - so our hopes were pretty high for our brunch. And let me tell you, we were not disappointed. Not even a little.

I couldn't help but choose one of the beautiful nigella seed bagels, served open-faced with smoked salmon, cream cheese, pickled shallots, and dill. The bagel itself was perfection, light and soft inside with a hint of onion flavor and a satisfying crunch from the nigella seeds on the outside. The salmon was smoky and flavorful, and the pickled shallots offered a bit of tanginess. My friend chose the bagel with sliced beets, which essentially swaps out beets for the salmon, and was equally delicious in its own way. She picked the nigella seed bagel, too (since that was the right choice), but if you're not into that sort of thing, there were two other bagel flavors to choose from, as well.

Also at our table were some more lunch-like dishes: a wild boar sausage dish with sauerkraut, apple butter, roasted fingerling potatoes; a beautiful bowl of vibrant borscht topped with heaps of fresh herbs; and a simple but well-executed salad for some ruffage (I do love my ruffage). Everything was delicious: the sausage was moist and flavorful, and paired perfectly with the bright flavors from the apple butter and sauerkraut, while the borscht was light and fresh-tasting - perfect for a light lunch.

And then on to the main event: dessert (side note: if you're not having dessert at brunch, you really need to re-think some things). We ordered coffee and dessert separately - be warned that if you order everything all at once, your borscht will come at the same time as your cake, which would really just be distracting, because who wants to eat beets when there's a big slice of cake staring them in the face?

Our cappuccinos were very good, and boasted some seriously lovely latte art, made even more lovely by the vintage china they were served in. Between us, we shared two slices of cake: Dobos Torte and the legendary Russian Honey Cake. The Dobos Torte was very good, with its extremely rich chocolate frosting and a surprisingly salty cookie was placed artfully on top. We all enjoyed it, though it unfortunately suffered from second-fiddle syndrome - because the Russian Honey Cake was, well, exceptional.

Honestly speaking, 20th Century Café's Russian Honey Cake is quite possibly the best cake I've ever tasted (if not, it's a close second). In the weeks that have passed since I ate this cake, it has popped into my mind over and over again - those impossibly thin yet perfectly baked layers of sponge paired with the most luscious honey cream create an almost hypnotizing effect. It is intensely satisfying, and tastes as if smooth butter was whipped up with creamy honey to create an airy, soft cloud of slightly salty, not-too-sweet deliciousness. I will probably never visit San Francisco again without getting a slice of this cake - it's that good.

If you were for some reason unable to sense the copious amount of love that has been poured into 20th Century Café during your meal (but you will, don't worry), it'll be clear with a quick chat with Michelle on your way out. She and her staff genuinely love this place, and the work that goes into it. They wear beautiful vintage dresses because they want to, not just for show. They painstakingly execute traditional baking methods because they enjoy it, and because it makes the food taste better. Each tiny detail has been carefully considered, and it all adds up to a truly delightful experience.

20th Century Café
198 Gough Street
San Francisco, CA 94102

The Great British Brunch Off Part Two; or, Eating My Way Through London

February 25, 2017 by Veronica Kablan in Travel

When I reflect on my recent trip to London, my memories are colorful. Even in the dead of winter, when the city by all accounts should have been grey, dreary, and cold, it surprised me with its vibrancy and life. London is a patchwork quilt; one that has been in the making for centuries, with bits of ancient history sewn in alongside the shiny and modern.

A Lebanese Bakery near Marylebone, London - so much beautiful baklava!

It feels like this place is bursting at the seams with culture. In just a short walk, you can hear any number of different languages being spoken on the streets. With each impulsive turn down a side street, you’ll find something new and delicious to experience.

As I mentioned in Wednesday’s post, British food has not had a great reputation historically. Some criticize it for so much appropriation of cuisines from other cultures, others claim that the only good food in London is available to the ultra-rich. In my mind, while these statements appear to be based in some fact, there is a lot more to the story - especially today. For one thing, the Brits seem to have wholeheartedly embraced the slow food movement, with local, organic, and sustainable cuisine available everywhere you look. There are independent operations abound, serving up everything from explosively flavorful foods inspired by global cuisine to thoughtfully reimagined versions of British classics. It feels like there is so much good food to try in this bustling city, and I’m positive that in the few days we were there, we weren’t even able to scratch the surface.

Elizabeth Tower, which hold the bell called Big Ben - don't get it twisted! And yeah, I took this photo from inside a bus. Sue me.

And if there’s one thing I learned while in the U.K., it’s that these folks know how to brunch. Seriously. A full English breakfast is the ultimate brunch fare - a indulgence sure to heal any damage done from a night at the pub, and that will more than qualify as enough caloric intake for two meals.

London at night, as seen from the London Eye

So let’s dive right in, shall we? Below is a list of our favorite breakfasts and brunches that we had while in London... it’s the Great British Brunch Off!

Where The Pancakes Are

Can you think of a more delightful concept for a restaurant than a place that serves all manner of pancakes? I can't. And as someone who's ultimate favorite food is pancakes, this is my kind of place. Where The Pancakes Are serves savory pancakes, sweet pancakes, baked Dutch Baby pancakes, and vegan pancakes. And they're all delicious. Even my dairy-allergic husband was on cloud nine. I only wished I could have tried everything on the menu - it was nearly impossible to choose.

Breakfast with vegan pancakes, Where the Pancakes Are, London

My husband opted for the "Breakfast" savory pancakes, which is a delightful riff on the full English breakfast. His delicious vegan pancakes (as mentioned, the poor bloke is allergic to dairy) were topped with a sunny side up fried egg, and were paired with bacon, roast cherry tomatoes, sausage, portobello mushroom, and baked beans.

Savo(u)ry Dutch Baby, Where the Pancakes Are, London

Because a good Dutch Baby is truly a beautiful thing, I opted for the savory one: with soft goat's cheese, parmesan, cheddar with thyme and rosemary, served with bitter salad. I don't normally love goat's cheese, but let me tell you - this was phenomenal. It was soft, fluffy, creamy, and cheesy all at once, with the loveliest, most delicate flavor punctuated perfectly by rosemary. I would order this again with no hesitation.

The Savo(u)ry Dutch Baby (left) and the Breakfast (right), Where the Pancakes Are, London

Epic steamy coffee at Where the Pancakes Are, London

Owner Patricia was so sweet to help guide us through the menu and made us feel at home. The café was gorgeous inside, and was flooded with beautiful morning light from the huge floor-to-ceiling windows. During the summer, their outside tables will surely get a lot of use - I can't imagine a lovelier way to spend a morning than by devouring some of these delicious pancakes outside on the patio!

The bill at Where the Pancakes Are comes in a book. Adorable.

Berners Tavern

For a day when only the most glamorous brunch will do, there is Berners Tavern. Berners is extravagant: glittering orb-shaped chandeliers hang from an impossibly intricate ceiling, illuminating walls crammed with art in glittering gilded frames and rows of plush circular banquettes. It's rather like dining in the lushest of palaces; it's worth a trip just to experience this restaurant's great interior design.

Lovely seating area, Berners Tavern, London

Spinach Banana Smoothie (left) and Kale Apple Cucumber Lime Juice (right), Berners Tavern, London

Luckily, Michelin-starred chef Jason Atherton has the goods to back up all that glamour - the food is delicious, as well. We started with something healthy to drink - for my husband, the spinach banana smoothie, and for me, the kale apple cucumber lime juice. Both were refreshing and delicious; the perfect jolt of nutrients that we needed after so much traveling.

English Breakfast, including black pudding, at Berners Tavern, London

My husband ordered another riff on the English breakfast, served with a real black pudding - something that had until this point been elusive. A classic component of an English breakfast, this blood sausage may not look pretty, but I've been assured it was scrumptious.

Avocado and Poached Eggs on Toast and a side of mushrooms, Berners Tavern, London

Shamefully, I was feeling like I needed something on the health-conscious side the day we visited Berners (it's easy to overindulge on vacation, and sometimes you need a break!), so I went for the... wait for it... avocado toast. I know, I should be ashamed for ordering California's number one brunch item while overseas. But I couldn't contain my curiosity, so I ordered it - and I wasn't disappointed. Overall, the eggs we ate in England were fantastic - especially the Clarence Court free-range eggs served at Berners Tavern. So yeah, it may not have been as fancy as Sqirl's famous avocado toast, but it was pretty darn tasty.

Brown & Rosie

After several days straight of incredibly filling (and delicious) full English breakfasts, we were ready for something a little bit different. Luckily, just a short walk from our hotel was Brown & Rosie, an adorable Australian-style café serving up fantastic coffee and fresh, colorful food. We loved the relaxed vibe at this adorable eatery, as well as the attention to detail and design (that logo, though!).

Here, we opted for variations on eggs-on-toast: for my husband, the simple poached free-range eggs on sourdough toast, and for me, the mushrooms on toast. As simple as it was, the eggs on toast was one of my husband's favorite breakfasts the whole trip - the ingredients were simple and of excellent quality, so each component was given the chance to sing.

The simple but perfect Eggs on Toast, Brown & Rosie, London

My dish, the mushrooms on toast, was filling and flavorful. I loved the chickpea puree, which added a creaminess that paired nicely with the perfectly-browned mushrooms. And that yolk... such a vibrant orange. The coffee was delicious, made with flavorful espresso and sweet, creamy milk - it even rivaled some of the best cappuccinos I've had here at home.

Mushrooms on Toast at Brown & Rosie, London

Brown & Rosie would be a perfect spot to stop for a quick breakfast before a day of sightseeing, or a nice place to relax and work for an afternoon. We were enamored by the beautiful treats hiding in the pastry case (especially that dreamy gluten free cake), but again, our tummies could only hold so much. Until next time.

Hotel Breakfasts

Beautiful sculpture in the stairwell of The Ampersand Hotel, London

It's important to remember that a good marriage involves some form of compromise. So when your husband wants to go on vacation, you can probably infer that he also wants you to stop always trying to find the best restaurant in town and instead just eat something so he can go and see the things he wants to see. Which I guess is fair, right? Not everyone travels for the sole purpose of trying new food. So, without his asking (I'm trying to be a good wife here, after all), I championed the idea of our eating breakfast in the hotels a few times. And to my delight, both hotel restaurants stepped up to the plate with some winning breakfast spreads!

Vegetarian English Breakfast at Hunter 486 at The Arch, London

The most satisfying bowl of porridge with berries and granola, Hunter 486 at The Arch, London

The first, Hunter 486 at The Arch Hotel, offered both a menu of hot a la carte dishes and a continental breakfast buffet. Their vegetarian full English breakfast was hearty and satisfying, and I especially loved the roasted portobello mushroom. On a morning when I wasn't feeling so well, I opted for a bowl of porridge with fruit, and it was exactly what I needed - a nourishing bowl of goodness. My husband mostly stuck with the continental breakfast, of which the standout was surely the fresh baked bread with honeycomb - quite a treat that we'll have to try to replicate at home one day.

Vegetarian English Breakfast at Apero Mediterranean Restaurant at the Ampersand Hotel, London

The second was Apero Mediterranean Restaurant at The Ampersand Hotel, a beautiful space tucked away in the hotel's basement. Unfortunately for my husband, this restaurant did not have much available that was dairy-free, so he was restricted to some plain eggs - though they did seem able to accommodate most other dietary restrictions. However, I'm happy to announce that Apero holds the title for best vegetarian English breakfast - and I tried quite a few of these during our trip. Their addition of tangy fried halloumi really added some extra oomph to the classic flavor combination of egg, tomato, and mushroom. I ate this breakfast before catching an early flight back home, and I am so glad I dragged myself out of bed to do so - it was the perfect end to our trip (for me. Sorry Husband).

Honorable Food Mentions

While this is a brunch blog, I feel that I can also assume that our readers are interested in other types of foods - at least on occasion. So, without going too far into detail, I'd like to offer a quick rundown of some other delicious bites we enjoyed while galavanting through London.

Stall after stall of delicious food, Borough Market, London

So many beautiful cheeses at Borough Market, London

Borough Market is a must-visit for any food lover. It's a sprawling outdoor food market with stalls offering everything from mulled wine and stinky cheese to fish and chips and homemade fudge (yeah, you know I walked out with a big bag of fudge). The line for the Ethiopian food curled around its stall and down the block. The fresh fruits and vegetables were piled high, begging us to take them home. We tasted as much as we could, and everything was delicious. As far as we could tell, you can't go wrong.

Inside the Library Lounge during Afternoon Tea service, London

Tea for two at the Library Lounge, London. The spread on the left is the traditional version, and the one on the right is dairy-free.

Afternoon tea is an obligatory activity while visiting England. Skipping it would not just be blasphemous, it would be silly. Especially when so many places offer tea with bubbles - a.k.a. bottomless champagne. Yes, friends, afternoon tea with champagne is the cure for jet lag - I tell you this with confidence. We wandered into the Library Lounge at the Marriott after running away horrified by the mobs of tourists around the London Eye (an attraction you can skip, by the way), and were delighted to find that they were able to take us without a reservation. Everything was tasty, and they even offered a completely dairy-free high tea service for my husband. And with bottomless champagne, well, how could you go wrong?

Casually having coffee, just steps away from priceless art. British Museum, London

Phyllo Tart with Chicken and Beet Quinoa Salad, the British Museum, London

For an ancient history buff like my husband, the British Museum is absolute heaven. As much as I adore museum days, I also know that it's important to take some time to relax and recharge during a full day of perusing the collections - and the café at the British Museum offered some truly delicious sustenance. We enjoyed this fresh, flavorful lunch while relaxing just steps away from the art. The slight touch of sweetness from the sprinkling of chocolate on top of my cappuccino was a treat - it's something that's common in the U.K. and Europe, but not so much here. Delightful!

Raw Dessert Sampler at Wild Food Café, London

Beyond these, there were so many incredible dinners we enjoyed. We loved everything we tasted at Wild Food Café, a restaurant serving up organic, vegan cuisine in the most gorgeous way possible. The flight of desserts was a revelation, and my husband was so excited to indulge in some dairy-free dessert.

Achari Murgh (grilled chicken marinated in pickling spices) at Bombay Palace, London — Achari Murgh (grilled chicken marinated in pickling spices) at Bombay Palace, London

Our Christmas dinner spread at Bombay Palace, London

For our Christmas dinner, we ventured out for Indian food - a staple cuisine in London, and one of our favorites. Bombay Palace was just a short walk from our hotel and had a menu packed with tempting options, and even a number of items that could be prepared without dairy. Our favorite dish was a starter called Achari Murgh: grilled chicken marinated in pickling spices. Unusual and delicious!

Then there was Spring, Skye Gyngell's gorgeous, ethereal restaurant that served us mouthwateringly delicious dishes crafted from the finest seasonal ingredients, including an appetizer that featured a delicate cloud of burrata, a perfectly cooked steak, and a dairy-free chocolate sorbet that was basically life-changing.

Inside the beautiful Grazing Goat Gastropub, London. Unfortunately this mood lighting made for terrible food photographs!

The Grazing Goat in Marylebone offers a bit of the country in the middle of the city: its gastropub occupies the first floor of the small 8-room hotel, replete with rustic wooden furnishings and cozy mood lighting (which, while romantic, was terrible for photographs). The food is a seasonal take on classic British cuisine, sourced sustainably and locally. Everything was delicious - especially the light and flaky cod.

Artfully plated first course at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, London

Gorgeous sorbet dessert at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, London

And for our fancy night out, there was Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, a two-star Michelin restaurant inspired by historic recipes (you can imagine the history buff ate that one up...), that wowed us with every bite. The service was impeccable, the wine was perfection, and almost every dish was a knockout. We loved the little bits of history offered here and there, though we could have even done with more. All in all, a memorable experience!

And one last important mention for a foodie visiting London - you must at least do a quick walk-through of Harrods' food departments. There are delights in each room, from pastries to fresh fruit to prepared meals, and wandering through, it feels never-ending! Unfortunately we weren't hungry when we visited, so we didn't taste any of these treats, but it was still a treat to oogle all the beautiful food.

In a city as big and as historic as London, it's obvious that a short visit won't be enough to take in all that the city has to offer. I've already got a mile-long bucket list for when I return, including Dishoom, Kaffeine, and Sketch - though I'm sure by the time I return, with all the wonderful progress the London food culture is making on a daily basis, there will be even more delicious restaurants to visit. I can't wait!

Elizabeth Tower (aka Big Ben) at sundown, London

The Great British Brunch Off; or, a Foodie's Trip to Oxford, Southrop, and Bath

February 22, 2017 by Veronica Kablan in Travel

It goes without saying that over the years, British food has not had a stellar reputation. Much of this comes from strict rationing that occurred during wartimes, though a climate requiring that foods be preserved, boiled, stewed, or battered and fried certainly doesn’t help the case. It is unfair, however, that British food should still be suffering from this stigma. Especially in London, the culinary climate has been shifting toward excellence and diversity for years now, with multiculturally inspired dishes appearing as staples in British cuisine as early as the 1960’s and 70’s. More recently, British chefs have embraced the concepts embodied by the most forward-thinking food producers around the world, offering innovative, expertly-crafted dishes with a focus on quality and sustainability. And despite a concern a few years back that this type of fine food was only available to the ultra-rich diners who were seeking over-the-top experiences, it was clear on a recent visit that these days (in the cities I was able to visit, of course), delicious food can be found just about anywhere, on any budget. So to those of you who scoff when thinking about British food, I say, “pish posh!” The wonderful meals I was able to enjoy during my trip prove the stereotype wrong - especially the breakfasts and brunches. So let’s take the grand culinary tour, shall we?

Catching the train to Oxford at Paddington Station, London

After snagging a really good flight deal, my husband and I embarked on about a week-and-a-half trip to jolly old England. We spent approximately half our time in London, and the other half galavanting around the west, stopping in Oxford, the Cotswolds, and Bath. Today’s post outlines our adventures to the west, and on Saturday I’ll share the details of the London leg of our trip.

From a walk on a chilly day in Southrop, in the Cotswolds

There are a few important points I’d like to note: first, our visit landed over the Christmas holiday, so many restaurants were closed for extended holiday during our visit. This was most common in Oxford and Bath, where many of our must-visit spots in were unfortunately closed. This occurred in London as well, but not nearly as frequently. Second, surprisingly, we didn’t do very much restaurant planning before arriving (that is very unlike me). With a few exceptions, we did most of our food-scouting once we got there - and truthfully I wish I had done more research, because clearly this country is chock full of culinary delights. And yet, even without much prior planning, we never once found ourselves with a bad meal. So, take that, crappy British food reputation!

Oxford

Known as “the city of dreaming spires,” setting foot in Oxford truly feels like stepping into another time. As the home to the oldest university in the English-speaking world, the city has grown slowly over time around the legendary University of Oxford, boasting an incredible range of architecture dating back from as early as 1040. Getting to Oxford from London is a breeze: direct trains from Paddington Station depart frequently for a very reasonable price. The city is simply packed with history and culture, and amazingly, it’s contained to a rather small and very walkable area.

For our two nights in Oxford, we stayed at the gorgeous Old Parsonage Hotel, located within walking distance of all the major sights. The hotel is situated, literally, in an old parsonage - or, a residence provided by a church for its clergy. The building is just about as charming as you could imagine an old English home to be: it’s made of beautiful stone and is covered in Wisteria, with a walled-in garden in front, and wrought-iron window frames holding small square panes of glass. Inside, you are greeted by a roaring fire, dark painted walls covered in art, and comfortable, modern furnishings. Oh, and don’t forget the upstairs library available for hotel guests. It’s beautiful, classic, and positively luxurious.

Egg Florentine at the Old Parsonage Hotel, Oxford

The Old Parsonage Bar & Grill is a treat in itself, offering classic British dishes all day (including a tempting-looking afternoon tea), created from local and sustainable ingredients. At dinnertime, we loved the Smoked Mackerel, Leek & Dill tart, and for breakfast, the Egg Florentine was absolutely divine. The details were also appreciated here - have you ever seen a prettier coffee set?

Ben's Cookies, The Covered Market, Oxford

Coffee at Colombia Coffee Roasters, Oxford

Vegetarian English Breakfast (front) and Full English Breakfast (rear) at News Café, Oxford

We did manage to venture outside our cozy hotel on occasion while in Oxford, though as I mentioned earlier, we unfortunately found that many of the restaurants we’d hoped to visit were closed for an extended Christmas holiday. However, we still managed to find plenty of delicious food and drink: we enjoyed a classic, greasy Full English Breakfast at the News Café, ooey-gooey chocolate chip cookies at Ben’s Cookies and bona fide third-wave coffee in the Covered Market, and of course, a pint at the Eagle and Child, the pub where J.R.R. Tolkien and C.S. Lewis’ writing group famously met each week.

The Rabbit Room at the Eagle and Child, Oxford, where J.R.R. Tolkien and C.S. Lewis' writing group met weekly — The Rabbit Room at the Eagle and Child, Oxford, where J.R.R. Tolkien and C.S. Lewis' writing group met weekly

Welsh Rarebit at Vaults and Garden, Oxford

One of our favorite Oxford meals was a simple lunch at Vaults and Garden, a café situated in Oxford University’s old congregation room, a space that back to 1320. The room itself is stunning with its dramatic vaulted ceiling, and during the summer, you can sit outside in the garden. As quaint as the establishment is, we didn’t expect much of the food - but we were delightfully surprised to find that everything was not only flavorful, but organic! The Welsh Rarebit, paired with a pot of Earl Grey, was the perfect way to warm up on a chilly afternoon.

Fish special at the Ashmolean Rooftop Restaurant, Oxford

Lentils, Fish, and Rosé at the Ashmolean Rooftop Restaurant, Oxford

Oxford is also home to a truly excellent art museum called the Ashmolean, which, in true Oxford trailblazing style, was founded as the first university museum in 1683. While you can easily get lost in the museum’s thoughtfully curated exhibits for hours on end, you will need some sustenance to keep you on your feet. Luckily, the Ashmolean Rooftop Restaurant offers a beautiful space to rest and recharge with delicious, healthful cuisine. Oh, and a little bit of wine won’t hurt either.

Thyme at Southrop

Admittedly, New Year’s Eve is probably my least favorite holiday. To me, there’s nothing worse than getting all dressed up and staying out past my bedtime, having to elbow my way through crowds of drunk people. Seriously, what’s the point? Luckily, my husband is on the same page with me on this, so our usual New Year’s Eve tradition consists of getting an early dinner at our favorite Mexican restaurant, drinking some wine on the couch, and going to bed around ten. You can imagine the anxiety we faced when we considered what New Year’s Eve in another city might look like, especially when we considered celebrating in London - so instead, we decided to use the holiday as an opportunity to hole up in the middle of nowhere: we chose Thyme at Southrop.

"The Baa" (get it?!), at Thyme, Southrop

Adorable bicycle in the entryway, Thyme, Southrop

Technically, Southrop isn’t the middle of nowhere. It’s in the Cotswolds, part of the picturesque British countryside, but it’s only a short drive from Oxford. The town is adorably tiny: a collection of maybe twelve old stone buildings, four or five of which belong to Thyme. Called “an English country destination,” Thyme sits on 150 acres and occupies several lovingly renovated old buildings, including a medieval barn. The hotel (if you can call it that - it is most similar to a sprawling country bed and breakfast) offers beautiful rooms and private cottages that are available year round. What sets the operation apart is their food program - the lively garden and farm provide the food that their restaurant serves, from produce to fresh eggs and meat. In the summer, Thyme offers cookery (that’s “cooking” for us Americans) classes and retreats, and in the summer, garden tours.

During our stay, we were able to partake in a wonderful New Year’s Eve feast at the Tithe Barn: a buffet of delicious, home cooked British specialties with modern twists. Afterward, we were invited to the Swan, a pub owned by the Thyme team, for a party with live music and friendly conversation with the locals.

Eggs with smoked salmon, English Breakfast, Thyme, Southrop

Breakfasts at Thyme were absolutely delightful, with a rotating menu each day that featured fresh home-baked bread and pastries, incredibly delicious yogurt with fruit, and seasonal egg dishes. We especially loved their take on the English breakfast and their light and fluffy pancakes.

Poached Eggs with Smoked Salmon, Thyme, Southrop

Just a short walk down the road, the team at The Swan was busy redefining pub food: while its fare is heavily rooted in British tradition, dishes at The Swan have been masterfully reimagined and cooked to perfection using the highest quality local ingredients. Our meal here was some of the best food of our trip, and I’ll never forget the incredible homemade ice cream. The pub itself is impossibly cozy, with fireplaces in each room and antique country furnishings. Truly, a dream!

Getting muddy on a country walk in Southrop

Bath

At some point, we had to tear ourselves from the charms of the country, so we made our way to Bath. Like Oxford, Bath is a city rich in culture and history, with a wide range of architectural styles that date back centuries. It is best known for its ancient Roman baths, which are in remarkably good shape and can be viewed up close.

The natural hot springs that feed the baths were once considered to be healing waters, and over the centuries, people with all manner of afflictions pilgrimaged to Bath in hopes of finding some healing or relief. And as we learned in our free guided walking tour of the city (which you absolutely must take if you visit), you can still bathe in these very waters at a fancy modern spa, just steps away from the original.

What I found most captivating about Bath, however, was just how much it felt like something straight out of a Jane Austen novel. With so much 18th Century Georgian architecture, you could easily imagine Catherine Moreland of Northanger Abbey out for a promenade down one of the many beautiful streets (arm-in-arm with Mr. Tilney, of course). Lucky for me (and my fellow Austin fans), Bath is equipped with a delightfully quirky Jane Austen Museum, complete with a tea room with a prominently displayed painting of Colin Firth as Mr. Darcy. No, I am not kidding. It is wonderfully absurd and absolutely charming. And, the scone with clotted cream is heaven.

Cream Tea at the Jane Austen Centre Regency Tea Room, Bath

Regency Tea Room at the Jane Austen Centre, Bath

While our first choices for dinner while in Bath were sadly closed for the holiday, we were lucky to stumble upon a fantastic vegetarian restaurant just steps away from Bath Abbey called Acorn Vegetarian Kitchen. As a former vegan, I am still always excited to find delicious vegetarian food - it is still rare to find a conventional restaurant that knows how to treat a vegetable as well as a good vegetarian chef does - so we were lucky to stroll in and grab one of the few tables in this tiny, cozy restaurant. Each dish we sampled was delicious, flavorful, creative, and expertly prepared. Our favorite dishes included the Chioggia Beetroot Slivers, the Leek and Potato, and the Salted Chocolate Tart with peanut butter sorbet. This spot is a great find for vegetarians and non-vegetarians alike, and it made things especially easy on my poor dairy-allergic husband.

Salted Chocolate Tart at Acorn Vegetarian Kitchen, Bath

For our one night in Bath, we stayed at The Kennard, a charming hotel located in an original Georgian townhouse that was once used as lodging for those spending a season in Bath. In many ways, it feels a little bit too original - the tiny bathroom, which would have been a dream for an occupant back in the day, to us felt cramped - but its charm and convenient location make it all worthwhile. Breakfast is included here, served in a downstairs dining room, and is made from locally sourced, farm-fresh ingredients. In addition to being delicious, it all felt very refined with the fancy flatware and touches of silver on the table.

As we meandered through Bath, we passed countless adorable bakeries, coffee shops, and tea rooms, not to mention windows full of savory pies. Unfortunately one's stomach is rarely bottomless, so most of Bath's delights will need to be left for another time. Like Oxford, Bath is just a short train ride from London, so heading back into the city was quick and easy.

Clearly, there is much deliciousness to be found in jolly old England - especially in brunch form. And if such bounty can be found outside of London, you can only imagine what treats are to be found in the big city! Be sure to pop by on Saturday for all the ooey-gooey details.

Until then, Cheers!

Haute Cakes Caffe | Newport Beach, CA

January 28, 2017 by Veronica Kablan in Travel

When it comes to brunch, Los Angeles is bursting at the seams with options. It feels like there are new restaurants opening every week, each offering food more delicious than the ones that came before. Honestly, it's difficult to keep up. So why would you ever venture outside of county lines to have your Sunday mid-morning feast? Because, friends, the O.C. knows how to brunch, too. A quick Yelp search will reveal that cities like Costa Mesa, Huntington Beach, and Irvine are absolutely packed with delicious brunch options, some of which even give L.A. a run for its money with their creative, scrumptious fare. My husband and I find ourselves in Orange County quite a bit visiting family, and have managed to sample some really delicious and satisfying brunches. One recent such trip took us to the lovely Haute Cakes Caffe in Huntington Beach.

Tucked away inside a rather nondescript shopping center you'll find a sweet little garden dining area, as well as an inevitable line spilling out the café doors. Each weekend, OC residents flock to Haute Cakes, lining up for baked goods, egg sandwiches and scrambles, and inarguably delicious pancakes. Luckily, the line moves fast, and there's plenty of seating available both inside and out. This operation is a well-oiled one - which comes as no surprise when you realize that this restaurant is coming into their 27th year of business.

Both the interior and the patio are absolutely charming, it's clear that the owners strive to keep the place looking fresh and modern and that everything here is done with a lot of love (maybe it's the adorable hearts hiding everywhere that tipped me off?). Outside, locals linger over their treats with their families and pets - dogs are more than welcome on the lovely garden patio. Inside, the pastry case is packed with beautiful sweets from homemade pop tarts to shiny croissants and tempting cupcakes. There's a rumor going around that the cinnamon rolls are unmissable, but as they typically sell out of these within an hour or two of opening, I can neither confirm nor deny. The coffee is taken quite seriously, too; they're brewing up delicious Stumptown coffee in both drip and espresso form.

Our table sampled plates both sweet and savory, since every good bruncher knows that variety is the spice of life. First, an almond croissant that was flaky, buttery, and light - just exactly what a croissant should be.

Then, the "Hello & Good Morning" Sandwich: two fried eggs sandwiched between a buttery brioche bun, with crispy bacon, avocado, tomato, greens, sharp cheddar, and onion-jalapeño jam, served with a side of oven roasted potatoes. This was a hearty, satisfying meal with a wonderful kick from the jam.

Next, the All American Scramble, a perfect choice for those looking for a more classic breakfast. With crispy smoked bacon, avocado and tomato, toast, jam and oven-roasted potatoes, this was another really filling breakfast choice. Normally, this dish is also served with cheddar, but ours was without - my poor husband who ordered it sadly is allergic to dairy products (awful, I know).

Of course, I am a sucker for some avocado toast, so when it pops up on a menu I'm rarely able to resist. Haute Cake's version comes with smashed avocado, heirloom tomatoes, rosemary sea salt and soft herbs on sourdough toast. I opted to have my eggs sunny side up, because I do love a runny yolk. On the side, some seasonal fruit, which to my delight was a heaping pile of fresh, tart berries. Now that is the way to do a side of fruit (none of this honeydew melon nonsense, thankyouverymuch).

And because I couldn't in good conscience come to Haute Cakes Caffe and walk away without having tried some 'cakes, we ordered a side of the Orange Ricotta Haute Cakes. The menu warns that these take a bit longer than usual to cook, but ours were out only moments after the rest of our food arrived. Topped with juicy berries and served with a side of maple syrup, these pancakes actually melt in your mouth. Creamy, soft, and perfectly cooked, these were definitely a winner.

To you Angelenos: next time you have the occasion to venture south of our lovely city, consider doing so on a weekend morning so you can indulge in some Orange County brunch as well! There are many delicious treats to be found, including some really wonderful pancakes.

Haute Cakes Caffe

1807 Westcliff Drive
Newport Beach, CA 92660