Brunchographers

Lovingly documenting our favorite weekend ritual over coffee, cocktails, and compelling conversation.

Brunchographers: Lovingly documenting our favorite weekend ritual over coffee, cocktails, and compelling conversation.

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View from Kapari Natural Resort, Santorini, Greece

View from Kapari Natural Resort, Santorini, Greece

Savoring Santorini

October 29, 2016 by Veronica Kablan in Travel

The last leg of our Grecian journey was a visit to one of the most picturesque and iconic places in Greece: the island of Santorini. Formed by a still-active volcano, the island is one of thousands scattered throughout the Aegean. Each summer, tourists come in droves from around the globe to experience the incredible views, gorgeous beaches, and delicious food that the Greek islands have to offer. Each island has its own unique selling points, ranging from lively party culture to secluded romantic getaways to ancient archeological sites. Santorini is considered a perfect destination for honeymooners, most famous for its cliffs studded with iconic white buildings and for its unforgettable sunsets. Personally, I couldn't get the images of the bright white balconies overlooking the saturated blue water out of my head for months - I was transfixed, and simply had to see it in person.

Our room at Kapari Natural Resort, Santorini, Greece

Our room at Kapari Natural Resort, Santorini, Greece

Our room at Kapari Natural Resort, Santorini, Greece

Our room at Kapari Natural Resort, Santorini, Greece

We stayed in a village called Imerovigli, just north of the island's largest city, Fira. After an excruciating hotel selection process (excruciating only in that there were far too many beautiful hotels to choose from), we landed on the gorgeous Kapari Natural Resort. A small hotel of only 14 rooms, Kapari is a recently renovated complex of 300-year old traditional cave-like dwellings nestled into the cliffside. Each room overlooks the caldera, providing incredible sunset views from practically every vantage point. Because we were celebrating our fifth wedding anniversary, the staff at Kapari was kind enough to upgrade us to a gorgeous suite that opened up to the small infinity pool. They even gifted us a beautiful fruit plate and a bottle of Greek wine for the occasion - we have never felt so fancy in our lives!

Sunset view from Kapari Natural Resort, Santorini, Greece

Sunset view from Kapari Natural Resort, Santorini, Greece

The food at Kapari was fantastic - if we had never bothered to leave the hotel our entire stay, we probably still would have been very happy campers. Each morning, after being faced with the difficult task of dragging ourselves out of our cozy room, we were rewarded with the most delicious breakfast possible, served in front of breathtaking views.

Breakfast with a view at Kapari Natural Resort, Santorini, Greece (note the aforementioned seeded croissant!)

Breakfast with a view at Kapari Natural Resort, Santorini, Greece (note the aforementioned seeded croissant!)

There was something for everyone - after sampling the gorgeous array of homemade treats lined up at the buffet, we could choose from a range of hot dishes like omelets, scrambles, pancakes, and stuffed crepes. Each breakfast started with a bread basket, and inside was one of the best croissants I've ever had. It was whole wheat and seeded (as strange as that sounds) while still perfectly light, buttery, and flaky. I know, a whole wheat croissant sounds like a contradiction in itself, but believe me. It's absolutely magical. 

Pancakes with fruit and yogurt at Kapari Natural Resort, Santorini, Greece

Pancakes with fruit and yogurt at Kapari Natural Resort, Santorini, Greece

In the evenings, the breakfast space becomes the Kapari Wine Restaurant, one of the top rated restaurants on the entire island. And rightfully so - it's so good, I could probably write an entire post in its honor (but since it's not technically brunch, I'll restrain myself). The dishes are thoughtfully created and artfully presented, offering fresh perspectives on classic Mediterranean flavors that could rival some of the finest restaurants I've had the pleasure of experiencing. Everything we tasted was perfect, from the traditional cheese pie appetizer to the handmade beetroot ravioli and the chicken stuffed with crayfish mousse. There's truly not much better in life than sipping Greek wine and enjoying a lovingly prepared meal while watching the sunset over the sea.

Traditional Cheese Pie at Kapari Wine Restaurant, Santorini, Greece

Traditional Cheese Pie at Kapari Wine Restaurant, Santorini, Greece

I do know this is a food blog, but I would be remiss if I did not mention that perhaps the most amazing part of the Kapari experience is the staff. In just the short time we were there, they grew to know us by name, remembering our preferences and tailoring our experience to us personally. They truly made it their mission to make sure that our Santorini experience was the best it could be, and they succeeded. Honestly, this was possibly the best customer service I have experienced! 

Along the path from Imerovigli to Fira, Santorini, Greece

Along the path from Imerovigli to Fira, Santorini, Greece

More views along the path to Fira, Santorini, Greece

More views along the path to Fira, Santorini, Greece

Upon venturing out of the hotel, we found the island of Santorini to be full of delights. The first day, we walked the winding path to Fira - approximately a 20 minute walk - and enjoyed an afternoon of shopping and people watching. And because not every meal should be a four-course fine dining extravaganza, we also enjoyed some "fast food" - gyros and kebabs so mouthwateringly delicious, it makes you wonder how American fast food is even a thing. 

Sandwich from Why Not! Souvlaki, Santorini, Greece

Sandwich from Why Not! Souvlaki, Santorini, Greece

Other sightseeing highlights included a trip to the fascinating archeological site, Akrotiri (an ancient city preserved after being covered in ash from a volcanic eruption in 1627 BC, à la Pompeii), and a guided wine tour visiting several wineries on the island.

Archeological site of the ancient city of Akrotiri, Santorini, Greece

Archeological site of the ancient city of Akrotiri, Santorini, Greece

Wine tasting in Santorini, Greece

Wine tasting in Santorini, Greece

We followed up the wine tasting adventure with a hearty meal in Fira, because you know, we drank lots of wine. As you do. 

Greek Pasta with sundried tomato, feta, and olives, at Argo, Fira, Santorini, Greece

Greek Pasta with sundried tomato, feta, and olives, at Argo, Fira, Santorini, Greece

We also enjoyed a day on the beaches of Perissa, where the sand is a gorgeous, sparkly black due to volcanic ash. We felt like movie stars relaxing on the luxurious beach lounge chairs that the restaurants of there offered, and I especially enjoyed sipping the much creamier Greek equivalent to an iced coffee - the frappé. Someone needs to start selling those in L.A., pronto, they'd be a huge hit. 

Enjoying a Greek frappe on the black sand beach of Perissa, Santorini, Greece

Enjoying a Greek frappe on the black sand beach of Perissa, Santorini, Greece

Of course, we also partook in the ultimate Santorini experience (according to TripAdvisor, anyway) - hiking the trail from Fira to Oia, a city on the northern tip of the island. The hike took us about two hours and was full of some of the most stunning views imaginable. We went in the morning, so it wasn't too hot, and we stopped a few times along the way for photos. Totally worth the effort - and hey, you've got to work off that gelato somehow, right?

Views on the hike from Fira to Oia, Santorini, Greece

Views on the hike from Fira to Oia, Santorini, Greece

Santorini's economy is fueled mainly by tourism, and in some ways those effects are deeply obvious. Almost everyone speaks English by default, and when we'd address people using the small amount of Greek that we learned, it would take people by surprise. From time to time, when the cruise ships would release their passengers, the narrow streets of the villages quickly became claustrophobic and overwhelming. And not surprisingly, you couldn't turn a corner in Santorini without running into a millennial taking a selfie in front of the caldera (I'm guilty, I totally did it too). But the locals we spoke to didn't seem to begrudge the tourist set, rather, they seemed relieved to be a part of a steady business in a country that has experienced so much economic turmoil in recent years. So, whenever we felt a bit overwhelmed, we settled in for a long, leisurely lunch by the sea to escape the crowds. There's truly nothing like it! 

Chicken Skewers at Chef's Garden, Fira, Santorini, Greece

Chicken Skewers at Chef's Garden, Fira, Santorini, Greece

Just like in Athens, every café and taverna we stopped in served us delicious food. From the fancy to the casual, it felt like every place served their food with at least a little bit of love. A few times, we even got to go back into the restaurant's kitchen and pick out the fish we wanted for lunch, which we loved - it was so much fun to see inside the kitchens and chat with the chefs. 

Enjoying lunch with a view at Dimitri's Ammoudi Restaurant in Oia, Santorini, Greece

Enjoying lunch with a view at Dimitri's Ammoudi Restaurant in Oia, Santorini, Greece

Delicious afternoon treats at Lolita's Gelato, Oia, Santorini, Greece

Delicious afternoon treats at Lolita's Gelato, Oia, Santorini, Greece

Here are some of the places we visited while in Santorini:

  1. Kapari Natural Resort & Kapari Wine Restaurant, Imerovigli 
  2. Bagiatiko Food Bar, Fira 
  3. Avocado Restaurant, Imerovigli
  4. Why Not! Souvlaki, Firostefani
  5. Akrotiri Archeological Site
  6. Santorini Wine Tour
  7. Argo Restaurant, Fira
  8. Chef's Garden, Fira 
  9. Hiking Trail from Fira to Oia 
  10. Dimitri's Ammoudi Restaurant, Oia
  11. Atlantis Books, Oia (a must for any book lover!)
  12. Lolita's Gelato, Oia
EarlyMorning

It was difficult to leave the gorgeous retreat of Santorini, especially when we were greeted by the beautiful sunrise view above on the morning of our departure. Between the kind inhabitants, the unbelievable beauty, and the scrumptious food and wine, we were in heaven!

October 29, 2016 /Veronica Kablan
Travel, Greek Week, Greece, Santorini
Travel
4 Comments
The Parthenon, Athens, Greece

The Parthenon, Athens, Greece

An Appetite in Athens

October 25, 2016 by Veronica Kablan in Travel

It feels like Greece has been all over my Instagram and Pinterest feeds this year. You know what I mean: those dreamy photos of breathtaking ancient ruins, ooey-gooey desserts dripping with honey and covered in ice cream, and of course some fancy people eating breakfast on some little balcony overlooking the most stunning ocean views you've ever seen. The Greece travel-porn is everywhere. And I think it started to sneak into my subconscious, because when my husband and I started to plan our big anniversary trip this year, there was only one place I could think about. It had to be Greece. 

Greek Pasta with tomato and olives, Café Amoroso, Athens, Greece

Greek Pasta with tomato and olives, Café Amoroso, Athens, Greece

When planning our trip to Athens, I expected to find a big, busy city full of culture and history, gorgeous architecture, and really old art. I also expected it to be bursting at the seams with tourists, as well as restaurants that cater to said tourists. You know the places I'm talking about; those mediocre, overpriced joints that a local wouldn't patronize except in a true emergency. I figured we'd have to do a lot of research to find the good food, just like here at home (although in a country without Yelp, I was a tiny bit terrified). 

Kebabs, Café Amoroso, Athens, Greece

Kebabs, Café Amoroso, Athens, Greece

What we found upon arriving, however, was a very pleasant surprise: yes, there are an abundance of restaurants catering to the tourist crowd, but they're a far cry from the boring chains lining Hollywood Boulevard or Times Square. Instead, we found mostly family-owned joints serving up real traditional Greek food. A lot of their menus boast similar items - including souvlaki, moussaka, saganaki, and the like - but each seemed to include its own unique flair, and as far as we could tell they were all incredibly delicious. In fact, some of the tastiest food we had in Athens came from a little place just steps away from the Acropolis, where we were sweet-talked into dining by a very persuasive host (a fact that we were sure would not bode well for the food, and we were SO wrong).

Vegetarian Moussaka at Liondi Traditional Greek Restaurant, Athens, Greece

Vegetarian Moussaka at Liondi Traditional Greek Restaurant, Athens, Greece

All this to say, it seemed that Athens' dining scene could do no wrong. Every little taverna and café we visited served us delicious food, far better than any "Greek" cuisine we've tried in the U.S. We did our best to try all the classics, as well as some dishes we'd never heard of. One of my favorites was called dakos - a salad with a base of crisp barley rusks, almost like dried bread, layered with grated fresh tomatoes and delightfully tart grated feta cheese. And, like all good things in Greece, it was topped off with a drizzle of really good olive oil. So, so delicious.

Dakos at Piatsa Kolonaki, Athens, Greece

Dakos at Piatsa Kolonaki, Athens, Greece

Breakfast each day was enjoyed at our hotel, the Coco-Mat, not just because it was included in our stay, but because the folks at the Coco-Mat are clearly breakfast experts. Each morning, they set out an incredible spread of serve-yourself treats like the most luscious Greek yogurt, soft and flavorful breads, boiled eggs drizzled with olive oil, tangy cheeses, and homemade pastries both savory and sweet. And don't forget the delicious cappuccino from the fanciest Nespresso machine I've ever seen. As if that weren't enough, you could also order delicious hot egg dishes from their menu, like omelettes and scrambles. 

Omelette and continental breakfast treats at the Coco-Mat Hotel, Athens, Greece

Omelette and continental breakfast treats at the Coco-Mat Hotel, Athens, Greece

The Coco-Mat also features a large roof deck with sweeping views of Athens - and they'll even serve you a meal there. Their menu caters to a wide range of tastes, featuring fresh and flavorful salads, traditional Greek dishes with modern twists, and decadent desserts. Everything we tried was so delicious that we made a point to stay in for dinner more than once!

The view from the roof of the Coco-Mat Hotel, Athens, Greece

The view from the roof of the Coco-Mat Hotel, Athens, Greece

Delicious salad and chicken appetizer, Coco-Mat Hotel, Athens, Greece

Delicious salad and chicken appetizer, Coco-Mat Hotel, Athens, Greece

No vacation is complete without eating something so decadent you wouldn't even dream about it normally - that something for me was obviously Lukumades. These little deep-fried balls of dough have been called a Greek version of donuts, and they'd been tempting me through Instagram for months. I absolutely couldn't not try them. 

Lukumades, Athens, Greece

Lukumades, Athens, Greece

Friends, let me tell you that I was in no way disappointed. Lukumades are amazing. I went for a classic flavor, in hopes of tasting something more "authentic," but it was really hard to decide. You can have them topped with ice cream, sauces, or nuts, or stuffed with any number of flavored cream fillings. This is basically paradise for those of us with a sweet tooth! I wish I could go back. 

"All-Time Classic," Lukumades, Athens, Greece

"All-Time Classic," Lukumades, Athens, Greece

Perhaps my favorite part of our visit was the Acropolis Museum, a modern and beautifully designed museum just steps away from the Acropolis itself. It provides context for the breathtaking ruins and historic sites of the ancient city, and has many original sculptures and artifacts on display. The best part is the top floor, where they have displayed the sculptures that once decorated the top edges of the Parthenon in original formation - mirroring the layout of the Parthenon itself, which is visible through the huge windows along the walls. It's breathtaking, and so well executed! 

The Acropolis Museum, Athens, Greece (note the Parthenon, visible in the upper left!)

The Acropolis Museum, Athens, Greece (note the Parthenon, visible in the upper left!)

And of course, the Acropolis Museum has a cafe, where you can rest and recharge between floors, all while still ogling the beautiful Parthenon. 

The café at the Acropolis Museum, Athens, Greece (note the Parthenon, visible in the upper left!)

The café at the Acropolis Museum, Athens, Greece (note the Parthenon, visible in the upper left!)

Cappuccino, Café at the Acropolis Museum, Athens, Greece

Cappuccino, Café at the Acropolis Museum, Athens, Greece

Here's a recap of the places I've mentioned here: 

  1. The Parthenon, Acropolis
  2. Café Amoroso
  3. Liondi Traditional Greek Restaurant
  4. Piatsa Kolonaki
  5. Coco-Mat Hotel, Athens
  6. Lukumades
  7. The Acropolis Museum & Café

All in all, Athens charmed the pants off of us. Who knew that the city that so many treat as a mere stopover to the islands is absolutely brimming with character, culture, and absolutely DELICIOUS food? If you can, do yourself a favor and spend some time here. It's absolutely worth the trip! 

Check back in later this week for some highlights from our visit to the gorgeous island of Santorini. Until then...  Sas efcharistó kai kalí nýchta efcharistó!

October 25, 2016 /Veronica Kablan
Greece, Greek Week, Athens, Travel
Travel
Comment