Dudley Market | Venice, CA

March 04, 2017 by Veronica Kablan in Los Angeles Restaurants

It's safe to say that Los Angeles is now officially a "foodie town." We're no longer living in the culinary shadow of Northern California; we've got our own loud, colorful identity and it's finally being reflected in our restaurants, as well. From pop-up restaurants to fine dining establishments, chefs across the city are pulling out all the stops, showing off not just our region's incredible produce but their own capacity to innovate and entertain with food.

Dudley Market is a perfect example of the changing landscape in Los Angeles' food culture. It's a little food oasis, hiding in what feels like a back alley just steps from Venice Beach. It's the kind of place you'd happen upon after taking a wrong turn while looking for someplace else. But once you'd soaked in the welcoming exterior, the pretty gold logo etched on the massive windows, and the tempting menu by the door, it's also the type of place that would charm you into forgetting wherever it was you were supposed to go. And then, you'd taste the food, and you'd start to wonder if it was here that you were meant to be all along.

In the rustic, light-drenched space that was once a convenience store, Chef Wesley Barden is cooking up delicious, inventive cuisine that makes the most out of the bounty of produce he finds at local farmers markets. By day, Dudley Market feels welcoming and relaxed, serving home-baked pastries, comforting breakfast and lunch dishes, and grab-and-go snacks and drinks to locals as they wander off the beach. By night, it becomes a romantic, candlelit bistro, alive with conversation and laughter as diners savor elegant cuisine and thoughtfully selected wines.

The breakfast menu during the week is short but sweet; its six items somehow manage to cover all the bases. It would be hard to top the Smoked Salmon dish as a perfect, contained breakfast (unless, of course, you added an egg on the side... which I did). The homemade bagel is perfect, and the caraway kefir provides a light and tangy alternative to a basic cream cheese. The vegetable accompaniments make the dish feel special, providing freshness and sharp contrasts in both flavor and texture. But the star of the dish is, of course, the gorgeous and vibrant house-smoked salmon, delicately flavorful and tender.

During weekend brunch, the menu doubles in size, adding stick-to-your-ribs breakfast dishes and classic lunch fare, as well as bottomless mimosas. The Shrimp & Grits dish certainly falls under the stick-to-your-ribs category; it's hearty and comforting, but somehow doesn't feel heavy. The rustic cheese grits have a texture almost like buckwheat or oatmeal, and are thick, creamy, and oh-so-satisfying. On top, spicy shrimp, runny fried eggs, and a sweet onion marmalade create a harmonious flavor profile that elevates a simple country dish into something distinctive and memorable.

The Farro Bowl was an unexpected surprise, combining a kitchen sink's worth of different textures and flavors into something surprisingly harmonious. Perhaps the most unusual component is the sieved egg, which is impossibly fluffy and light and melts into a salty creaminess when it hits the tongue. The farro is as nutty and firm as you would hope it to be, tossed in a light vinaigrette that offers just a hint acidity, and the radish slices add a satisfying crunch to each bite. There are also chunks of tangy citrus, earthy roasted mushrooms, and flecks of fragrant rosemary. What brings this all together is the luscious smear of whipped goat's cheese on the side of the bowl; it's lemony and bright and yet still savory, and it's so light and fluffy that it's almost cloud-like. We both agreed that we'd be satisfied with a bowl of this cheese alone, or maybe with a nice slice of baguette. It's divine.

And because no good brunch goes without a bit of decadence, there are the Seany Cakes. This should probably be called simply Seany Cake, what with there being only a singular enormous cake, but the Seany Cakes are all about challenging your expectations. In fact, nothing about this dish is what you'd expect; the cake is thick and crispy on the outside, incredibly moist and steaming in the center, and sports a robust, yeasted flavor that barely approaches sweetness. On top, deliciously tart, syrupy blackberries and a mound of soft, sweet whipped cream that melts the moment it makes contact with the steaming hot cake. This is exactly the kind of dish that Sundays were made for.

As the Los Angeles food culture continues to explode, deciding where to brunch next can be overwhelming - but perhaps we needn't look much farther than our own backyard. Hidden gems like Dudley Market are out there, offering something special and unique (and downright delicious) to their communities. Taking the time to discover them can be an adventure in itself - and hey, if at the end of the adventure there are some bottomless mimosas, we certainly won't complain.

Dudley Market
9 Dudley Ave
Venice, CA 90291

Urth Caffé on Main Street in Santa Monica, CA

Urth Caffé | Santa Monica, CA

March 01, 2017 by Veronica Kablan in Los Angeles Coffee Shops

Just steps from the beach on a lively stretch of Main Street stands the Santa Monica branch of Urth Caffé, housed in a beautiful Spanish-style building bedecked with colorful tilework and lush, vibrant greenery. This is just one of several outposts of the mini-chain that could easily be called a Los Angeles institution; its top-notch organic coffee and tea and consistently high-quality, health-conscious food offerings have made it a mainstay for over 15 years - and have put it on the map as one of L.A.'s best coffee shops.

Tiled fountain on the patio at Urth Caffé, Santa Monica, CA

Impressively, the restaurant's distinct aesthetic is consistent across each of its six locations; its trademark custom metal chairs, courtyards with charming tiled fountains, and shelves lined with gleaming tins of tea offer a familiar warmth that makes its regulars feel at home. No matter the location you choose, you're greeted by a massive glass case filled with gorgeous, meticulously decorated pastries and desserts, behind which hordes of hunter-green clad employees buzz around, grinding fragrant coffees and swiftly filling orders to keep the ever-present line moving. It feels overwhelming and comfortably familiar all at once, perhaps due in part to Urth's commitment to quality and consistency - each item on their lengthy menu is crafted with care and is easily customizable.

In 1989, dissatisfied with the destructive and chemical-laden coffee manufacturing process that was (and unfortunately still is) the standard, founders Jilla and Shallom Berkman set out to create the first exclusively organic, heirloom coffee company in the world. Just two years later, in 1991, they opened the very first Urth Caffé in Manhattan Beach. The operation grew slowly, and by the mid-2000's, the healthful meals and organic coffees served at Urth's locations across Los Angeles had formed a cult following. The restaurants also became a hotspot for celebrity sightings, and made regular appearances on HBO's Entourage. Today, the fervor still exists - tourists and locals alike flock to the six locations to sample quintessential healthy Southern California fare and to sip photo-worthy coffees and teas.

Halfway through a foamy cappuccino at Urth Caffé, Santa Monica, CA

While Urth Caffé is now well known as a full-service restaurant, excellent coffee remains at the heart of the operation. It's probably safe to say that Shallom Berkman is coffee-obsessed; his stringent high standards ensure that the words "organic," "fair trade," and "sustainable" actually mean something when used in reference to Urth's coffee. Berkman establishes and maintains relationships with ethical coffee growers around the world, often educating them in best practices for growing organic coffee, then oversees the meticulous roasting process back at Urth's Downtown LA headquarters. Here, the coffee is roasted in small batches using cast iron roasters, giving the team the ability to fine tune each coffee's flavor on an individual level.

Just as Urth offers a variety of different types of coffee beans, the menu also features a wide array of serving styles - options are kind of their thing. It's actually fortunate that there's almost always a line out the door here, because having a few extra minutes to decide is a godsend when you realize just how overwhelming the menu of drinks can be. Not only are there about three times as many options for espresso drinks as any normal coffee shop, but you're also faced with the choice of how you want your espresso: Urth Italia (dark roast) or Urth Dolcé (light roast). Beyond espresso, you can sample traditionally brewed coffee, French press coffee, tea lattés, boba teas, juices, and smoothies. Customization options include at least seven different types of milk, ten natural flavorings, and additions of real whipped cream, boba pearls, or extra shots, and they'll even make anything unsweetened upon request. So yeah, those of us who have trouble making decisions should probably just avoid looking at the menu at all.

For the first time in the Great Cappuccino Project, I was faced with a quandary when ordering: Urth actually features two different cappuccinos on their menu. One is called simply "cappuccino," and the other is an "Italian cappuccino." Fortunately, I'm no stranger to Urth's Santa Monica location, and I've been able to stage repeat visits in order to sample both - in the name of science, of course.

Cappuccino at Urth Caffé, Santa Monica, CA

The simply titled "cappuccino" recalls memories of the foam-explosion we experienced back at Funnel Mill: this is the 90's style, wall-of-foam type of cappuccino that you order before settling in for a Poetry Slam. It's unfortunately a bit of a let down if you don't know what you're getting into; after seeing countless Instagram photos of Urth's coffees featuring top-notch latte art, the tall mound of foam on top looks bland and a little sad. But once you take a sip, things start to look up. Under that big fluffy cloud lies Urth's trademark flavorful espresso - sharply bitter with a robust flavor profile that remains steady throughout your sip. It's a classic example of "don't judge a book by its cover," as long as you don't have an aversion to milk foam. And if that's the case, then you probably shouldn't be ordering a cappuccino anyway.

Italian Cappuccino (left) and Latte (right), Urth Caffé, Santa Monica, CA

If you're looking for a more decorative, sexier cappuccino, the Italian variety is your best bet. With intricate design work etched into a modest layer of a thin, velvety micro-foam, this cappuccino more closely resembles the ones we've found at the hip, "third-wave" coffee shops in Los Angeles. The espresso is consistently robust and flavorful, and it combines with the milk to create a drink that is lusciously smooth. No ugly ducklings here; this drink is dressed to impress.

I could go on for days about what to try (and what to skip) at Urth Caffé, but if you live in L.A., you probably could, too. It is a mainstay for good reason - it's the perfect spot when you're looking to soak in some California sunshine and enjoy a reliably delicious and healthy meal alongside a well-crafted cup of coffee.

Urth Caffé
2327 Main St.
Santa Monica, CA 90405

The Great British Brunch Off Part Two; or, Eating My Way Through London

February 25, 2017 by Veronica Kablan in Travel

When I reflect on my recent trip to London, my memories are colorful. Even in the dead of winter, when the city by all accounts should have been grey, dreary, and cold, it surprised me with its vibrancy and life. London is a patchwork quilt; one that has been in the making for centuries, with bits of ancient history sewn in alongside the shiny and modern.

A Lebanese Bakery near Marylebone, London - so much beautiful baklava!

It feels like this place is bursting at the seams with culture. In just a short walk, you can hear any number of different languages being spoken on the streets. With each impulsive turn down a side street, you’ll find something new and delicious to experience.

As I mentioned in Wednesday’s post, British food has not had a great reputation historically. Some criticize it for so much appropriation of cuisines from other cultures, others claim that the only good food in London is available to the ultra-rich. In my mind, while these statements appear to be based in some fact, there is a lot more to the story - especially today. For one thing, the Brits seem to have wholeheartedly embraced the slow food movement, with local, organic, and sustainable cuisine available everywhere you look. There are independent operations abound, serving up everything from explosively flavorful foods inspired by global cuisine to thoughtfully reimagined versions of British classics. It feels like there is so much good food to try in this bustling city, and I’m positive that in the few days we were there, we weren’t even able to scratch the surface.

Elizabeth Tower, which hold the bell called Big Ben - don't get it twisted! And yeah, I took this photo from inside a bus. Sue me.

And if there’s one thing I learned while in the U.K., it’s that these folks know how to brunch. Seriously. A full English breakfast is the ultimate brunch fare - a indulgence sure to heal any damage done from a night at the pub, and that will more than qualify as enough caloric intake for two meals.

London at night, as seen from the London Eye

So let’s dive right in, shall we? Below is a list of our favorite breakfasts and brunches that we had while in London... it’s the Great British Brunch Off!

Where The Pancakes Are

Can you think of a more delightful concept for a restaurant than a place that serves all manner of pancakes? I can't. And as someone who's ultimate favorite food is pancakes, this is my kind of place. Where The Pancakes Are serves savory pancakes, sweet pancakes, baked Dutch Baby pancakes, and vegan pancakes. And they're all delicious. Even my dairy-allergic husband was on cloud nine. I only wished I could have tried everything on the menu - it was nearly impossible to choose.

Breakfast with vegan pancakes, Where the Pancakes Are, London

My husband opted for the "Breakfast" savory pancakes, which is a delightful riff on the full English breakfast. His delicious vegan pancakes (as mentioned, the poor bloke is allergic to dairy) were topped with a sunny side up fried egg, and were paired with bacon, roast cherry tomatoes, sausage, portobello mushroom, and baked beans.

Savo(u)ry Dutch Baby, Where the Pancakes Are, London

Because a good Dutch Baby is truly a beautiful thing, I opted for the savory one: with soft goat's cheese, parmesan, cheddar with thyme and rosemary, served with bitter salad. I don't normally love goat's cheese, but let me tell you - this was phenomenal. It was soft, fluffy, creamy, and cheesy all at once, with the loveliest, most delicate flavor punctuated perfectly by rosemary. I would order this again with no hesitation.

The Savo(u)ry Dutch Baby (left) and the Breakfast (right), Where the Pancakes Are, London

Epic steamy coffee at Where the Pancakes Are, London

Owner Patricia was so sweet to help guide us through the menu and made us feel at home. The café was gorgeous inside, and was flooded with beautiful morning light from the huge floor-to-ceiling windows. During the summer, their outside tables will surely get a lot of use - I can't imagine a lovelier way to spend a morning than by devouring some of these delicious pancakes outside on the patio!

The bill at Where the Pancakes Are comes in a book. Adorable.

Berners Tavern

For a day when only the most glamorous brunch will do, there is Berners Tavern. Berners is extravagant: glittering orb-shaped chandeliers hang from an impossibly intricate ceiling, illuminating walls crammed with art in glittering gilded frames and rows of plush circular banquettes. It's rather like dining in the lushest of palaces; it's worth a trip just to experience this restaurant's great interior design.

Lovely seating area, Berners Tavern, London

Spinach Banana Smoothie (left) and Kale Apple Cucumber Lime Juice (right), Berners Tavern, London

Luckily, Michelin-starred chef Jason Atherton has the goods to back up all that glamour - the food is delicious, as well. We started with something healthy to drink - for my husband, the spinach banana smoothie, and for me, the kale apple cucumber lime juice. Both were refreshing and delicious; the perfect jolt of nutrients that we needed after so much traveling.

English Breakfast, including black pudding, at Berners Tavern, London

My husband ordered another riff on the English breakfast, served with a real black pudding - something that had until this point been elusive. A classic component of an English breakfast, this blood sausage may not look pretty, but I've been assured it was scrumptious.

Avocado and Poached Eggs on Toast and a side of mushrooms, Berners Tavern, London

Shamefully, I was feeling like I needed something on the health-conscious side the day we visited Berners (it's easy to overindulge on vacation, and sometimes you need a break!), so I went for the... wait for it... avocado toast. I know, I should be ashamed for ordering California's number one brunch item while overseas. But I couldn't contain my curiosity, so I ordered it - and I wasn't disappointed. Overall, the eggs we ate in England were fantastic - especially the Clarence Court free-range eggs served at Berners Tavern. So yeah, it may not have been as fancy as Sqirl's famous avocado toast, but it was pretty darn tasty.

Brown & Rosie

After several days straight of incredibly filling (and delicious) full English breakfasts, we were ready for something a little bit different. Luckily, just a short walk from our hotel was Brown & Rosie, an adorable Australian-style café serving up fantastic coffee and fresh, colorful food. We loved the relaxed vibe at this adorable eatery, as well as the attention to detail and design (that logo, though!).

Here, we opted for variations on eggs-on-toast: for my husband, the simple poached free-range eggs on sourdough toast, and for me, the mushrooms on toast. As simple as it was, the eggs on toast was one of my husband's favorite breakfasts the whole trip - the ingredients were simple and of excellent quality, so each component was given the chance to sing.

The simple but perfect Eggs on Toast, Brown & Rosie, London

My dish, the mushrooms on toast, was filling and flavorful. I loved the chickpea puree, which added a creaminess that paired nicely with the perfectly-browned mushrooms. And that yolk... such a vibrant orange. The coffee was delicious, made with flavorful espresso and sweet, creamy milk - it even rivaled some of the best cappuccinos I've had here at home.

Mushrooms on Toast at Brown & Rosie, London

Brown & Rosie would be a perfect spot to stop for a quick breakfast before a day of sightseeing, or a nice place to relax and work for an afternoon. We were enamored by the beautiful treats hiding in the pastry case (especially that dreamy gluten free cake), but again, our tummies could only hold so much. Until next time.

Hotel Breakfasts

Beautiful sculpture in the stairwell of The Ampersand Hotel, London

It's important to remember that a good marriage involves some form of compromise. So when your husband wants to go on vacation, you can probably infer that he also wants you to stop always trying to find the best restaurant in town and instead just eat something so he can go and see the things he wants to see. Which I guess is fair, right? Not everyone travels for the sole purpose of trying new food. So, without his asking (I'm trying to be a good wife here, after all), I championed the idea of our eating breakfast in the hotels a few times. And to my delight, both hotel restaurants stepped up to the plate with some winning breakfast spreads!

Vegetarian English Breakfast at Hunter 486 at The Arch, London

The most satisfying bowl of porridge with berries and granola, Hunter 486 at The Arch, London

The first, Hunter 486 at The Arch Hotel, offered both a menu of hot a la carte dishes and a continental breakfast buffet. Their vegetarian full English breakfast was hearty and satisfying, and I especially loved the roasted portobello mushroom. On a morning when I wasn't feeling so well, I opted for a bowl of porridge with fruit, and it was exactly what I needed - a nourishing bowl of goodness. My husband mostly stuck with the continental breakfast, of which the standout was surely the fresh baked bread with honeycomb - quite a treat that we'll have to try to replicate at home one day.

Vegetarian English Breakfast at Apero Mediterranean Restaurant at the Ampersand Hotel, London

The second was Apero Mediterranean Restaurant at The Ampersand Hotel, a beautiful space tucked away in the hotel's basement. Unfortunately for my husband, this restaurant did not have much available that was dairy-free, so he was restricted to some plain eggs - though they did seem able to accommodate most other dietary restrictions. However, I'm happy to announce that Apero holds the title for best vegetarian English breakfast - and I tried quite a few of these during our trip. Their addition of tangy fried halloumi really added some extra oomph to the classic flavor combination of egg, tomato, and mushroom. I ate this breakfast before catching an early flight back home, and I am so glad I dragged myself out of bed to do so - it was the perfect end to our trip (for me. Sorry Husband).

Honorable Food Mentions

While this is a brunch blog, I feel that I can also assume that our readers are interested in other types of foods - at least on occasion. So, without going too far into detail, I'd like to offer a quick rundown of some other delicious bites we enjoyed while galavanting through London.

Stall after stall of delicious food, Borough Market, London

So many beautiful cheeses at Borough Market, London

Borough Market is a must-visit for any food lover. It's a sprawling outdoor food market with stalls offering everything from mulled wine and stinky cheese to fish and chips and homemade fudge (yeah, you know I walked out with a big bag of fudge). The line for the Ethiopian food curled around its stall and down the block. The fresh fruits and vegetables were piled high, begging us to take them home. We tasted as much as we could, and everything was delicious. As far as we could tell, you can't go wrong.

Inside the Library Lounge during Afternoon Tea service, London

Tea for two at the Library Lounge, London. The spread on the left is the traditional version, and the one on the right is dairy-free.

Afternoon tea is an obligatory activity while visiting England. Skipping it would not just be blasphemous, it would be silly. Especially when so many places offer tea with bubbles - a.k.a. bottomless champagne. Yes, friends, afternoon tea with champagne is the cure for jet lag - I tell you this with confidence. We wandered into the Library Lounge at the Marriott after running away horrified by the mobs of tourists around the London Eye (an attraction you can skip, by the way), and were delighted to find that they were able to take us without a reservation. Everything was tasty, and they even offered a completely dairy-free high tea service for my husband. And with bottomless champagne, well, how could you go wrong?

Casually having coffee, just steps away from priceless art. British Museum, London

Phyllo Tart with Chicken and Beet Quinoa Salad, the British Museum, London

For an ancient history buff like my husband, the British Museum is absolute heaven. As much as I adore museum days, I also know that it's important to take some time to relax and recharge during a full day of perusing the collections - and the café at the British Museum offered some truly delicious sustenance. We enjoyed this fresh, flavorful lunch while relaxing just steps away from the art. The slight touch of sweetness from the sprinkling of chocolate on top of my cappuccino was a treat - it's something that's common in the U.K. and Europe, but not so much here. Delightful!

Raw Dessert Sampler at Wild Food Café, London

Beyond these, there were so many incredible dinners we enjoyed. We loved everything we tasted at Wild Food Café, a restaurant serving up organic, vegan cuisine in the most gorgeous way possible. The flight of desserts was a revelation, and my husband was so excited to indulge in some dairy-free dessert.

Achari Murgh (grilled chicken marinated in pickling spices) at Bombay Palace, London — Achari Murgh (grilled chicken marinated in pickling spices) at Bombay Palace, London

Our Christmas dinner spread at Bombay Palace, London

For our Christmas dinner, we ventured out for Indian food - a staple cuisine in London, and one of our favorites. Bombay Palace was just a short walk from our hotel and had a menu packed with tempting options, and even a number of items that could be prepared without dairy. Our favorite dish was a starter called Achari Murgh: grilled chicken marinated in pickling spices. Unusual and delicious!

Then there was Spring, Skye Gyngell's gorgeous, ethereal restaurant that served us mouthwateringly delicious dishes crafted from the finest seasonal ingredients, including an appetizer that featured a delicate cloud of burrata, a perfectly cooked steak, and a dairy-free chocolate sorbet that was basically life-changing.

Inside the beautiful Grazing Goat Gastropub, London. Unfortunately this mood lighting made for terrible food photographs!

The Grazing Goat in Marylebone offers a bit of the country in the middle of the city: its gastropub occupies the first floor of the small 8-room hotel, replete with rustic wooden furnishings and cozy mood lighting (which, while romantic, was terrible for photographs). The food is a seasonal take on classic British cuisine, sourced sustainably and locally. Everything was delicious - especially the light and flaky cod.

Artfully plated first course at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, London

Gorgeous sorbet dessert at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, London

And for our fancy night out, there was Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, a two-star Michelin restaurant inspired by historic recipes (you can imagine the history buff ate that one up...), that wowed us with every bite. The service was impeccable, the wine was perfection, and almost every dish was a knockout. We loved the little bits of history offered here and there, though we could have even done with more. All in all, a memorable experience!

And one last important mention for a foodie visiting London - you must at least do a quick walk-through of Harrods' food departments. There are delights in each room, from pastries to fresh fruit to prepared meals, and wandering through, it feels never-ending! Unfortunately we weren't hungry when we visited, so we didn't taste any of these treats, but it was still a treat to oogle all the beautiful food.

In a city as big and as historic as London, it's obvious that a short visit won't be enough to take in all that the city has to offer. I've already got a mile-long bucket list for when I return, including Dishoom, Kaffeine, and Sketch - though I'm sure by the time I return, with all the wonderful progress the London food culture is making on a daily basis, there will be even more delicious restaurants to visit. I can't wait!

Elizabeth Tower (aka Big Ben) at sundown, London

The Great British Brunch Off; or, a Foodie's Trip to Oxford, Southrop, and Bath

February 22, 2017 by Veronica Kablan in Travel

It goes without saying that over the years, British food has not had a stellar reputation. Much of this comes from strict rationing that occurred during wartimes, though a climate requiring that foods be preserved, boiled, stewed, or battered and fried certainly doesn’t help the case. It is unfair, however, that British food should still be suffering from this stigma. Especially in London, the culinary climate has been shifting toward excellence and diversity for years now, with multiculturally inspired dishes appearing as staples in British cuisine as early as the 1960’s and 70’s. More recently, British chefs have embraced the concepts embodied by the most forward-thinking food producers around the world, offering innovative, expertly-crafted dishes with a focus on quality and sustainability. And despite a concern a few years back that this type of fine food was only available to the ultra-rich diners who were seeking over-the-top experiences, it was clear on a recent visit that these days (in the cities I was able to visit, of course), delicious food can be found just about anywhere, on any budget. So to those of you who scoff when thinking about British food, I say, “pish posh!” The wonderful meals I was able to enjoy during my trip prove the stereotype wrong - especially the breakfasts and brunches. So let’s take the grand culinary tour, shall we?

Catching the train to Oxford at Paddington Station, London

After snagging a really good flight deal, my husband and I embarked on about a week-and-a-half trip to jolly old England. We spent approximately half our time in London, and the other half galavanting around the west, stopping in Oxford, the Cotswolds, and Bath. Today’s post outlines our adventures to the west, and on Saturday I’ll share the details of the London leg of our trip.

From a walk on a chilly day in Southrop, in the Cotswolds

There are a few important points I’d like to note: first, our visit landed over the Christmas holiday, so many restaurants were closed for extended holiday during our visit. This was most common in Oxford and Bath, where many of our must-visit spots in were unfortunately closed. This occurred in London as well, but not nearly as frequently. Second, surprisingly, we didn’t do very much restaurant planning before arriving (that is very unlike me). With a few exceptions, we did most of our food-scouting once we got there - and truthfully I wish I had done more research, because clearly this country is chock full of culinary delights. And yet, even without much prior planning, we never once found ourselves with a bad meal. So, take that, crappy British food reputation!

Oxford

Known as “the city of dreaming spires,” setting foot in Oxford truly feels like stepping into another time. As the home to the oldest university in the English-speaking world, the city has grown slowly over time around the legendary University of Oxford, boasting an incredible range of architecture dating back from as early as 1040. Getting to Oxford from London is a breeze: direct trains from Paddington Station depart frequently for a very reasonable price. The city is simply packed with history and culture, and amazingly, it’s contained to a rather small and very walkable area.

For our two nights in Oxford, we stayed at the gorgeous Old Parsonage Hotel, located within walking distance of all the major sights. The hotel is situated, literally, in an old parsonage - or, a residence provided by a church for its clergy. The building is just about as charming as you could imagine an old English home to be: it’s made of beautiful stone and is covered in Wisteria, with a walled-in garden in front, and wrought-iron window frames holding small square panes of glass. Inside, you are greeted by a roaring fire, dark painted walls covered in art, and comfortable, modern furnishings. Oh, and don’t forget the upstairs library available for hotel guests. It’s beautiful, classic, and positively luxurious.

Egg Florentine at the Old Parsonage Hotel, Oxford

The Old Parsonage Bar & Grill is a treat in itself, offering classic British dishes all day (including a tempting-looking afternoon tea), created from local and sustainable ingredients. At dinnertime, we loved the Smoked Mackerel, Leek & Dill tart, and for breakfast, the Egg Florentine was absolutely divine. The details were also appreciated here - have you ever seen a prettier coffee set?

Ben's Cookies, The Covered Market, Oxford

Coffee at Colombia Coffee Roasters, Oxford

Vegetarian English Breakfast (front) and Full English Breakfast (rear) at News Café, Oxford

We did manage to venture outside our cozy hotel on occasion while in Oxford, though as I mentioned earlier, we unfortunately found that many of the restaurants we’d hoped to visit were closed for an extended Christmas holiday. However, we still managed to find plenty of delicious food and drink: we enjoyed a classic, greasy Full English Breakfast at the News Café, ooey-gooey chocolate chip cookies at Ben’s Cookies and bona fide third-wave coffee in the Covered Market, and of course, a pint at the Eagle and Child, the pub where J.R.R. Tolkien and C.S. Lewis’ writing group famously met each week.

The Rabbit Room at the Eagle and Child, Oxford, where J.R.R. Tolkien and C.S. Lewis' writing group met weekly — The Rabbit Room at the Eagle and Child, Oxford, where J.R.R. Tolkien and C.S. Lewis' writing group met weekly

Welsh Rarebit at Vaults and Garden, Oxford

One of our favorite Oxford meals was a simple lunch at Vaults and Garden, a café situated in Oxford University’s old congregation room, a space that back to 1320. The room itself is stunning with its dramatic vaulted ceiling, and during the summer, you can sit outside in the garden. As quaint as the establishment is, we didn’t expect much of the food - but we were delightfully surprised to find that everything was not only flavorful, but organic! The Welsh Rarebit, paired with a pot of Earl Grey, was the perfect way to warm up on a chilly afternoon.

Fish special at the Ashmolean Rooftop Restaurant, Oxford

Lentils, Fish, and Rosé at the Ashmolean Rooftop Restaurant, Oxford

Oxford is also home to a truly excellent art museum called the Ashmolean, which, in true Oxford trailblazing style, was founded as the first university museum in 1683. While you can easily get lost in the museum’s thoughtfully curated exhibits for hours on end, you will need some sustenance to keep you on your feet. Luckily, the Ashmolean Rooftop Restaurant offers a beautiful space to rest and recharge with delicious, healthful cuisine. Oh, and a little bit of wine won’t hurt either.

Thyme at Southrop

Admittedly, New Year’s Eve is probably my least favorite holiday. To me, there’s nothing worse than getting all dressed up and staying out past my bedtime, having to elbow my way through crowds of drunk people. Seriously, what’s the point? Luckily, my husband is on the same page with me on this, so our usual New Year’s Eve tradition consists of getting an early dinner at our favorite Mexican restaurant, drinking some wine on the couch, and going to bed around ten. You can imagine the anxiety we faced when we considered what New Year’s Eve in another city might look like, especially when we considered celebrating in London - so instead, we decided to use the holiday as an opportunity to hole up in the middle of nowhere: we chose Thyme at Southrop.

"The Baa" (get it?!), at Thyme, Southrop

Adorable bicycle in the entryway, Thyme, Southrop

Technically, Southrop isn’t the middle of nowhere. It’s in the Cotswolds, part of the picturesque British countryside, but it’s only a short drive from Oxford. The town is adorably tiny: a collection of maybe twelve old stone buildings, four or five of which belong to Thyme. Called “an English country destination,” Thyme sits on 150 acres and occupies several lovingly renovated old buildings, including a medieval barn. The hotel (if you can call it that - it is most similar to a sprawling country bed and breakfast) offers beautiful rooms and private cottages that are available year round. What sets the operation apart is their food program - the lively garden and farm provide the food that their restaurant serves, from produce to fresh eggs and meat. In the summer, Thyme offers cookery (that’s “cooking” for us Americans) classes and retreats, and in the summer, garden tours.

During our stay, we were able to partake in a wonderful New Year’s Eve feast at the Tithe Barn: a buffet of delicious, home cooked British specialties with modern twists. Afterward, we were invited to the Swan, a pub owned by the Thyme team, for a party with live music and friendly conversation with the locals.

Eggs with smoked salmon, English Breakfast, Thyme, Southrop

Breakfasts at Thyme were absolutely delightful, with a rotating menu each day that featured fresh home-baked bread and pastries, incredibly delicious yogurt with fruit, and seasonal egg dishes. We especially loved their take on the English breakfast and their light and fluffy pancakes.

Poached Eggs with Smoked Salmon, Thyme, Southrop

Just a short walk down the road, the team at The Swan was busy redefining pub food: while its fare is heavily rooted in British tradition, dishes at The Swan have been masterfully reimagined and cooked to perfection using the highest quality local ingredients. Our meal here was some of the best food of our trip, and I’ll never forget the incredible homemade ice cream. The pub itself is impossibly cozy, with fireplaces in each room and antique country furnishings. Truly, a dream!

Getting muddy on a country walk in Southrop

Bath

At some point, we had to tear ourselves from the charms of the country, so we made our way to Bath. Like Oxford, Bath is a city rich in culture and history, with a wide range of architectural styles that date back centuries. It is best known for its ancient Roman baths, which are in remarkably good shape and can be viewed up close.

The natural hot springs that feed the baths were once considered to be healing waters, and over the centuries, people with all manner of afflictions pilgrimaged to Bath in hopes of finding some healing or relief. And as we learned in our free guided walking tour of the city (which you absolutely must take if you visit), you can still bathe in these very waters at a fancy modern spa, just steps away from the original.

What I found most captivating about Bath, however, was just how much it felt like something straight out of a Jane Austen novel. With so much 18th Century Georgian architecture, you could easily imagine Catherine Moreland of Northanger Abbey out for a promenade down one of the many beautiful streets (arm-in-arm with Mr. Tilney, of course). Lucky for me (and my fellow Austin fans), Bath is equipped with a delightfully quirky Jane Austen Museum, complete with a tea room with a prominently displayed painting of Colin Firth as Mr. Darcy. No, I am not kidding. It is wonderfully absurd and absolutely charming. And, the scone with clotted cream is heaven.

Cream Tea at the Jane Austen Centre Regency Tea Room, Bath

Regency Tea Room at the Jane Austen Centre, Bath

While our first choices for dinner while in Bath were sadly closed for the holiday, we were lucky to stumble upon a fantastic vegetarian restaurant just steps away from Bath Abbey called Acorn Vegetarian Kitchen. As a former vegan, I am still always excited to find delicious vegetarian food - it is still rare to find a conventional restaurant that knows how to treat a vegetable as well as a good vegetarian chef does - so we were lucky to stroll in and grab one of the few tables in this tiny, cozy restaurant. Each dish we sampled was delicious, flavorful, creative, and expertly prepared. Our favorite dishes included the Chioggia Beetroot Slivers, the Leek and Potato, and the Salted Chocolate Tart with peanut butter sorbet. This spot is a great find for vegetarians and non-vegetarians alike, and it made things especially easy on my poor dairy-allergic husband.

Salted Chocolate Tart at Acorn Vegetarian Kitchen, Bath

For our one night in Bath, we stayed at The Kennard, a charming hotel located in an original Georgian townhouse that was once used as lodging for those spending a season in Bath. In many ways, it feels a little bit too original - the tiny bathroom, which would have been a dream for an occupant back in the day, to us felt cramped - but its charm and convenient location make it all worthwhile. Breakfast is included here, served in a downstairs dining room, and is made from locally sourced, farm-fresh ingredients. In addition to being delicious, it all felt very refined with the fancy flatware and touches of silver on the table.

As we meandered through Bath, we passed countless adorable bakeries, coffee shops, and tea rooms, not to mention windows full of savory pies. Unfortunately one's stomach is rarely bottomless, so most of Bath's delights will need to be left for another time. Like Oxford, Bath is just a short train ride from London, so heading back into the city was quick and easy.

Clearly, there is much deliciousness to be found in jolly old England - especially in brunch form. And if such bounty can be found outside of London, you can only imagine what treats are to be found in the big city! Be sure to pop by on Saturday for all the ooey-gooey details.

Until then, Cheers!

Paper or Plastik Cafe | Los Angeles, CA

February 15, 2017 by Veronica Kablan in Los Angeles Coffee Shops

People have been talking about love all week. After all, 'tis the season for mixed messages sent through conversation hearts (be careful who you give that 'ILY' to), overpriced long-stem roses (I prefer my stems short, thankyouverymuch), and Instagram snaps of you and your Valentine (human, cat, or otherwise). This year, however, it seemed that a lot of people realized that February 14th doesn't have to be about material things. That instead, we can use this time to ponder love in all its forms, and perhaps even hold on to this appreciation beyond the 14th, through the rest of our year.

I was recently able to appreciate love found out in the wild, in the form of a little café in Mid-Wilshire called Paper or Plastik. The place is like a breath of fresh air; the huge open space is flooded with light from the floor-to-ceiling windows. Even on a weekday, it's full of people chatting, sipping coffee, and enjoying each others' company. Every little detail speaks to the care that was put into making this place - it's in the handwritten menus and signs, the pieces of art hiding here and there, the shelves of hand-picked boutique items, the rack of carefully curated independent magazines, the gorgeous handmade pastries lined up neatly in the case, and of course, the wonderful coffee. Many tables are laptop-free zones, reserved for "dining, daydreaming, and conversation," reminding us to disconnect and appreciate the world around us. There are even pops of red, the ultimate color of love, found throughout the décor. And as if all this weren't enough, when I arrived, the Sleepless in Seattle soundtrack was playing. If that won't help you to find love in the world, I don't know what will.

It's really no wonder that Paper or Plastik is oozing with love - its founders are a family of artists: husband-and-wife team Anya & Yasha Michelson and their daughter, Marina. The Michelsons opened Paper or Plastik in 2010 as an addition to their lively dance studio and special event space, Mimoda. The cafe offers customers a place to experience a sense of community while enjoying lovingly crafted food and drink. Chef Brian Leitner, a native Angeleno passionate about sustainability and farm-to-table cooking who counts Alice Waters and Gordon Drysdale among his mentors, oversees a diverse menu that changes seasonally. With tempting breakfast items offered until 3pm daily, this is a perfect spot for those pesky weekday brunch cravings. We've brunched here ourselves a few times, and hold a very high opinion of the blueberry ricotta pancakes.

But today, we're here to talk about the coffee. Paper or Plastik fits right in to the third-wave coffee movement, putting quality and sustainability at the forefront of their efforts. Brews offered include a selection from popular roasters like Coava, 49th Parallel, and Black Oak, as well as their own single origin beans roasted in-house. Milk selections include dairy milk from Straus Family Creamery and Califia Farms almond milk. Alongside the classics, the coffee menu features fun, signature drinks like the Lavender Chai, the Maple Latte, and the Mole Cortado.

As expected, in the name of science, I ordered up my usual cappuccino. Served in a small glass cup (as is apparently the fashion these days), this lovely concoction was piping hot and full of flavor. It reminded me a bit of eating a really nice slice of tiramisu; it was buttery and smooth like a thick whipped cream, and had a warm aftertaste with flavors like cocoa or hazelnut. The foam-to-coffee ratio was just right, and it was adorned with lovely latte art which was topped, appropriately, with a little heart. Delightful.

As I enjoyed that lusciously creamy cappuccino and watched the world go by, I heard the ever-familiar crooning of Jimmy Durante, asking me to "make just one someone happy." If that was indeed the goal, then the folks at Paper or Plastik have surely succeeded. And I hope that they're happy, too.

Paper or Plastik Cafe
5772 W Pico Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90019